What to Include in Your Pre-Design Checklist Before Hiring a Drafting Professional

If you’re about to hire a drafting professional, a smart pre-design checklist will save you weeks of rework, keep the permit office happy, and protect your budget from “death by a thousand change orders.” I’ve worked with hundreds of homeowners and builders on everything from compact ADUs to sprawling custom homes. The projects that sail through design and permitting have one thing in common: owners did their homework before the first line was drawn. Below is the exact approach I coach clients to take, with specific steps, real numbers, and the kind of nuance you only pick up after years in the field.

Why a pre-design checklist matters

Designing while you’re still figuring out your goals is like driving in fog—you move, but you’ll probably miss the turn. A clear checklist:

• Reduces redesign: Every major layout change after engineering can trigger a cascade of rework. Drafters commonly charge $80–$150/hour; a major revision after structural calcs can easily add 10–30 hours.
• Speeds permitting: Missing basic site data (setbacks, slopes, utility location) is a top reason plan reviewers kick back submissions. Each cycle can delay you 2–8 weeks depending on jurisdiction.
• Protects your budget: Builders will tell you late-stage changes during construction cost 5–15 times more than adjusting a drawing. Moving a window on paper costs minutes. Moving it after framing costs days.

Quick stat: The National Association of Home Builders has repeatedly shown that change orders and design indecision are among the top contributors to budget overruns. In my projects, a strong pre-design phase typically shaves 15–30% off the number of plan check comments and shortens approval by 3–6 weeks.

Step 1: Define your project goals and scope

Start with clarity. What are you building and why?

• Project type: New custom home, addition, ADU, interior remodel, garage conversion, second-story pop-top.
• Purpose: Growing family, aging-in-place, rental income, resale value, home office.
• Constraints: Hard budget cap, tight lot, historic district, wildfire zone, HOA rules.
• Success look-back: “If we look back one year after move-in, what needs to be true for this to feel like a win?”

Create a two-column list:

• Must-haves: e.g., 4 bedrooms, mudroom with dog wash, 2-car garage, 10’ island, curbless shower, accessible main-level suite.
• Nice-to-haves: vaulted living room, walk-in pantry, fireplace, covered outdoor dining.

Practical tip:

• Write a one-paragraph “project narrative” in normal language. Example: “We’re a family of five with two big dogs. We host Sunday dinners for 12. We need durable floors, a mudroom by the garage, and a quiet office with a door for Zoom calls. We cook daily and prefer an efficient work triangle over a show kitchen.”

Real-world scenario:

• A client in a windy coastal area insisted on a 16’ sliding door for ocean views. We balanced it with wind-rated glazing and exterior windbreaks and adjusted layout so the living area stays usable when weather is rough. That clarity would have been impossible without a clear goal statement up front.

Step 2: Build a realistic budget framework

Design expands to fill the budget you don’t define. Set a target and a cap now. Include soft costs (design, permits, utilities, surveys) and a contingency.

Rough budget template (adjust for your market):

• Construction cost (hard costs):
• New build: $200–$500+/sf depending on region and spec.
• Major remodel/addition: $250–$600+/sf (remodels are often pricier per sf due to complexity).
• Soft costs:
• Drafting/Design: New build 1–3% of construction cost; remodel 2–8% depending on complexity and scope.
• Engineering (structural): $2,500–$15,000+ depending on size and seismic/wind zone.
• Civil engineering/grading/drainage: $2,000–$20,000+ if grading, stormwater, or septic involved.
• Surveys: Boundary $1,000–$3,500; topographic $2,000–$5,000; combined $3,000–$8,000.
• Geotechnical (if required): $1,800–$6,000.
• Energy modeling: $400–$2,000.
• Permits and impact fees: ranges wildly ($2,000–$80,000+). Call your building department early.
• Contingency:
• Design phase: 10–15%.
• Construction phase: 10–20% (older homes and hillside sites lean higher).

Example:

• 2,400 sf new home at $275/sf = $660,000 construction.
• Soft costs (8%): ~$52,800.
• Permits/fees (varies by city): assume $18,000.
• Total before contingency: ~$730,800.
• Add 12% contingency: ~$82,000.
• Planning number: ~$812,800.

Pro tip:

• Decide what’s included in “sf” rate. Sitework, decks, driveways, landscaping, and utility trenching can add 10–25% to a base estimate.

Step 3: Do your site and property due diligence

Your site dictates what you can build more than your Pinterest board does.

Gather the following:

• Current deed and title report: Look for easements, rights-of-way, deed restrictions.
• Latest property survey:
• Boundary survey to confirm lot lines (critical in tight urban lots).
• Topographic survey for contours, spot elevations, tree locations, utility stubs.
• Zoning summary:
• Setbacks, height limit, lot coverage, floor area ratio (FAR), parking requirements.
• Special overlays: historic, coastal, wildfire interface (WUI), hillside.
• Utilities:
• Water, sewer, gas, electric locations and capacity; septic or well details if rural.
• If sewer absent, schedule percolation test for septic: $400–$1,500.
• Geotechnical info:
• Required for steep sites, expansive soils, liquefaction, or if you plan significant grading.
• Flood and fire:
• FEMA flood zone maps; WUI requirements (ember-resistant vents, defensible space).
• Access and driveway:
• Slope, sightlines, turning radius. Fire code often requires specific widths and turnarounds.
• Trees:
• Protected species, heritage trees, required setbacks from trunks and drip lines.
• HOA architectural guidelines (if applicable):
• Style limitations, color palettes, roof pitch rules, approval timeline (can be 30–90 days).

Practical steps:

• Call the planning counter. Ask for a pre-application meeting or zoning verification letter. It might cost $100–$300 but can answer deal-breaking questions fast.
• Walk the site after rain to observe drainage patterns.
• Take 360° photos at each corner and stake an approximate building footprint with string to feel space and sun paths.

Common mistakes:

• Skipping the survey and aligning to a fence line that’s 2’ inside your lot—instant redesign when a neighbor disputes it.
• Ignoring easements; I’ve seen driveways designed right over a utility easement that barred permanent paving.

Step 4: Understand code and regulatory requirements

Your drafter will guide you, but you should know the landscape so you can make smart choices.

Checklist:

• Building code: Most US residential projects follow the International Residential Code (IRC) with local amendments.
• Energy code: IECC or state equivalent (e.g., Title 24 in California). This drives window selection, insulation, mechanical systems, and sometimes solar readiness.
• Structural loads: Wind speed, exposure category, seismic zone, snow loads.
• Fire: WUI requirements (Class A roofing, ignition-resistant siding, tempered glazing near grade).
• Planning approvals:
• By-right versus discretionary review.
• Variances (if you can’t meet setbacks/height).
• Historic or design review boards (submittal requirements are specific—materials board, color samples, context photos).
• Health department: Septic design and well permits.
• Site disturbance thresholds: Stormwater management, erosion control plans, tree protection plans.

Timeframes:

• Straightforward permits: 3–8 weeks.
• Projects with design review or environmental checks: 3–6+ months.
• Tip: Ask the building department what percentage of first-round submittals pass and average resubmittal cycles.

Step 5: Document existing conditions (for remodels/additions)

Accurate as-builts are the backbone of a remodel design.

What to collect:

• Existing floor plans and elevations (measure if you don’t have them).
• Structure clues: Attic photos, crawlspace photos, beam directions, wall thicknesses (plaster walls vary), joist sizes.
• Mechanical inventory: Furnace/air handler locations, water heater, electrical panel size, plumbing manifold if any.
• Windows: Sizes, types, sill heights; note which meet egress requirements.
• Problems to solve: Cracks, sloping floors, past water damage, stuck doors (often structural or moisture-related).

Tools and tips:

• Laser distance measurer, graph paper, and a simple room-by-room template.
• Photograph corners and ceilings; include a tape measure in photos for scale.
• Consider a 3D scan (Matterport or similar). Many drafters can import point clouds into CAD/BIM; saves time and errors.

Hidden condition warning:

• Old homes may have knob-and-tube wiring, asbestos (vinyl tiles, mastic, duct tape), or lead paint. Budget for testing: $300–$800. Abatement can be thousands if disturbed.

Step 6: Build your functional program and room-by-room worksheets

This is where dreams turn into measurable spaces.

Room-by-room worksheet:

• Room name and target size (sf range is fine).
• Key furniture and clearances (e.g., king bed with 36” pathways).
• Storage needs (closet size, pantry cubic footage).
• Special features (prep sink, outlets in drawers, dog crate niche).
• Adjacent or not-adjacent preferences (e.g., kids’ bedrooms away from primary suite).
• Daylight and view priorities (morning sun in kitchen, mountain view from tub).
• Acoustic needs (music room STC 60, laundry buffered from bedrooms).
• Durability (mudroom tile vs. hardwood, stain-resistant counters).

Adjacency mapping:

• Sketch bubbles for kitchen, dining, living, outdoor dining, pantry, garage, mudroom, and draw lines for “must connect” and “avoid.” This clarifies circulation and reduces wasted hallway.

Example:

• A family of five who hosts weekly dinners prioritized: kitchen-dining flow, walk-through pantry between garage and kitchen, and a covered patio adjacent to dining. We cut 40 linear feet of hallway by creating a “service spine” with pantry, laundry, and powder in one zone.

Step 7: Set performance and quality targets

If you don’t define performance now, you’ll be selecting windows from a price list later. Aim for targets that your drafter and engineer can design toward.

Energy and envelope:

• Airtightness target: ≤2.5 ACH50 for new builds is very achievable with planning; ≤1.5 ACH50 for high-performance.
• Insulation: R-21+ in 2×6 walls (or better with exterior continuous insulation), R-38+ in roof/attic; adjust for climate zone.
• Windows:
• U-factor: 0.20–0.32 depending on climate.
• SHGC: Lower (0.22–0.35) for hot climates; moderate for mixed climates.
• Thermal bridging: Plan for exterior insulation or advanced framing to minimize cold spots.
• Solar and battery readiness: Conduit paths, panel space, roof layout (avoid chopping up south/west roof with dormers if you want PV).

Mechanical systems:

• Heat pump heating/cooling as baseline in many regions. Ducted if you want concealed heads; ductless can save money and be efficient for smaller homes.
• ERV/HRV for fresh air if you’re targeting tight construction.
• MERV 13+ filters for better indoor air quality.
• Heat pump water heater (HPWH) for efficiency; locate in conditioned space or garage with ducting.

Acoustics:

• Bedrooms: target STC 50 walls at shared boundaries; resilient channels on ceilings under second floors.
• Mechanical rooms: line with sound-absorbing materials and place away from sleeping areas.

Durability:

• Exterior cladding that matches your climate and maintenance appetite (cement board, brick, high-quality fiber cement, metal siding).
• Roof materials with Class A fire rating; consider impact-resistant shingles in hail-prone regions.

Health:

• Low-VOC paints, formaldehyde-free cabinets, proper range hood ducted to exterior (min. 300 CFM, 6” duct), make-up air if high CFM.

Quantify it:

• “We want a blower door test at ≤2.0 ACH50, windows with U≤0.28, and MERV 13 filtration.” Your drafter will coordinate wall sections and mechanical spaces accordingly.

Step 8: Structural strategy and building systems

You don’t need to engineer the house, but understanding options helps shape the design and budget.

Structure:

• Foundation:
• Slab-on-grade: cost-effective, good for radiant heat, watch for expansive soils.
• Crawlspace: easier access to plumbing/electrical, requires good moisture control.
• Basement: adds sf in cold climates, higher cost, great for mechanical/storage.
• Framing:
• Conventional 2x framing: most common and cost-effective.
• Engineered lumber (LVLs, I-joists): longer spans, straighter floors, slightly higher cost.
• Trusses: efficient for complex roofs; plan attic storage if you need it.
• Alternatives: SIPs or ICFs can improve envelope performance; check local contractor familiarity.

Mechanical, electrical, plumbing (MEP):

• Electrical:
• Panel size: 200A is common; plan 225–400A if fully electric with EVs, HPWH, induction, and future expansion.
• EV charging: 40A–60A circuit; plan conduit to garage even if not installing now.
• Lighting: layer ambient, task, accent; fewer can lights, more quality fixtures and dimmers.
• Low-voltage: Cat6 to office, TV, WAP locations; conduit to strategic spots for future tech.
• Plumbing:
• PEX manifold “home run” systems reduce wait time at taps.
• Hot water recirculation loops—timer or demand-based—to save water, especially in larger homes.
• Plan for a drain-down and isolation valves for easy maintenance.
• HVAC:
• Equipment location: centralize for balanced duct lengths; allocate closets/mech room in plan.
• Condenser placement: avoid bedrooms and neighbors’ windows; allow service clearances.

Cost and ROI:

• Heat pump upgrade over basic gas furnace can add $3,000–$8,000 but reduce operating costs and support electrification.
• Exterior continuous insulation and better windows may add 1–3% upfront but improve comfort and energy bills for decades.

Step 9: Aesthetic direction and an “inspiration package”

Drafters translate your taste into lines and proportions. Give them a clear brief.

What to prepare:

• 10–20 images each for exterior and interior you love—and 5 you dislike—with annotations (“Love: simple gable, no fake shutters.” “Avoid: arched windows.”).
• Local context photos: houses on your street that fit the neighborhood.
• Materials mood board: roofing, siding, masonry, window color, accent metals, door style.
• Style descriptors: “modern farmhouse with restrained detailing,” “Mid-century with warm wood,” “coastal contemporary—light and airy.”

Tools:

• Houzz ideabook, Pinterest board, or a shared folder with filenames like “Exterior_01_LapSiding” and captions.
• If you’re in an HOA, include their style guide and any pre-approved color chips.

Pro tip:

• Don’t chase trends you don’t genuinely love. Well-proportioned, honest materials outlast fads.

Step 10: Sustainability and resilience priorities

Climate and reliability are design problems you can solve upfront.

Sustainability:

• Passive strategies: Orient main glazing south in cold climates for solar gain, add shading for hot climates, design cross-ventilation, and use stack effect with operable clerestories if appropriate.
• PV/battery: Roughly 1 kW of solar per 100–150 sf of main roof area if unobstructed; typical home systems range 6–12 kW. Battery (10–20 kWh) supports critical loads 6–24 hours depending on use.
• Water:
• Low-flow fixtures, hot water recirc, drought-tolerant landscaping.
• Rainwater harvesting: 1,000 sf of roof at 1” rain = ~620 gallons captured.
• Greywater legalities vary; plan piping paths during design if you’re interested.
• Materials:
• Lower embodied carbon options: SCMs (supplementary cementitious materials) in concrete, FSC-certified wood, cellulose insulation.

Resilience:

• Wildfire: Class A roof, non-combustible cladding near grade, 1/8” mesh ember-resistant vents, 0–5’ noncombustible zone around home.
• Flood: Elevate critical equipment, flood vents if in floodplain, water-resistant finishes at lower levels.
• Seismic: Tie-downs, proper shear walls, secure gas shutoff.
• Backup power: Prewire for portable generator or install transfer switch; even if you plan to add a battery later, run conduit now.

Step 11: Accessibility, aging-in-place, and multi-generational planning

Even if you don’t need it today, a few thoughtful moves preserve flexibility.

Core moves:

• No-step entry at at least one primary door.
• 36” wide doors and 42”+ hallways where possible.
• Clear 60” turning radius in at least one bathroom.
• Curbless shower with linear drain; slope pan at 1/4” per foot.
• Blocking in walls for future grab bars.
• Lever handles instead of knobs.
• Stacked closets sized for a future elevator shaft (approx. 5’x5’ clear).

Multi-gen:

• Junior suite with small kitchenette (if allowed), sound separation, and exterior access.
• Shared laundry with dual stack locations or a second compact unit.

Step 12: Preliminary schedule and decision calendar

Create a realistic timeline and identify decision deadlines that keep momentum.

Typical pre-construction timeline (varies by team and city):

• Surveys and due diligence: 2–6 weeks.
• Schematic design (big-picture layouts, massing): 3–6 weeks.
• Design development (dimensions, windows, materials, systems): 4–8 weeks.
• Engineering (structural, civil): 3–6 weeks overlapping with design development.
• Permit prep and submittal: 2–4 weeks.
• Plan review: 4–12 weeks (longer with design review).
• Total pre-construction: 4–8 months for most custom homes.

Decision calendar:

• Week 2–4: Finalize room sizes and adjacency.
• Week 5–7: Lock exterior massing and window types.
• Week 8–10: Electrical and lighting plan preferences.
• Week 10–12: Plumbing fixture rough-in heights and types, appliance schedule.
• Before permit: Exterior materials and colors if design review required.

Reality check:

• Factor in supplier lead times: windows 8–20 weeks for custom; appliances 6–16 weeks; some specialty items longer.

Step 13: Team and communication plan

Who does what—and how you’ll work together—matters as much as the drawings.

Roles:

• Drafting professional: Produces construction documents; may or may not offer design vision depending on background. Ask about code familiarity and local experience.
• Architect or residential designer: If you want deeper design exploration or have a complex site, consider adding one.
• Structural engineer: Calculates beams, shear walls, foundation. Needed for most projects beyond very simple decks/sheds.
• Civil engineer: Grading, drainage, stormwater; critical for hillside, large additions, or jurisdictions with strict stormwater requirements.
• Energy consultant: Performs energy compliance calculations and forms.
• Surveyor, geotechnical engineer: As required by site.
• General contractor or pre-con estimator: Cost checks during design save heartache later.

Vetting a drafter:

• Portfolio: Look for projects similar to yours and in your jurisdiction.
• References: Ask for two recent clients and one builder they’ve worked with.
• Software and deliverables: CAD vs. BIM (Revit/ArchiCAD). Ask for sample plan set.
• Process: How many revision cycles are included? Typical turnaround time? How do they manage plan check comments?
• File ownership: Will you receive digital files? Any restrictions?

Kickoff agenda:

• Review your pre-design packet (this checklist done right).
• Clarify scope, budget, and timeline.
• Discuss code/zoning constraints already known.
• Decide decision-making cadence and point person.
• Set communication channels (email, shared folder, project management app).
• Establish a decision log and a risk register.

Step 14: Drawing and deliverable expectations

Spell out what you expect so there’s no debate later.

Permit set typically includes:

• Title sheet with project data, code summary, occupancy, sheets index.
• Site plan: property lines, setbacks, contours, utility connections, driveway, trees, drainage.
• Demolition plans (for remodels).
• Floor plans with dimensions, room names, window/door tags, notes.
• Roof plan and slope directions.
• Exterior elevations with materials, heights, grade references.
• Building sections and wall sections showing insulation and assembly.
• Details: foundations, flashing, waterproofing, fireplaces, guard rails.
• Window and door schedules (size, type, U-factor/SHGC).
• Structural sheets stamped by engineer: foundation plan, framing plans, details, connection specs.
• Energy compliance forms and mechanical schedules (varies by state).
• Electrical and lighting plan: outlets, switches, fixture locations, panel schedule.
• Plumbing fixture locations and notes.
• Notes and specifications sufficient for permit and bidding (CSI-style specs if provided, or general notes).

File formats and sizes:

• PDF plan set in 24×36 or 30×42 sheets.
• CAD or BIM files if included by contract.
• 3D views for client understanding if part of scope.

Clarify level of detail:

• Will they model cabinets, casework, and tile patterns or keep it schematic?
• Who coordinates appliance specs, vent terminations, and specialty equipment?

Step 15: Bidding and cost-check strategy

Integrate pricing feedback before you fall in love with an unaffordable plan.

Options:

• Early GC involvement: Invite a builder to provide preliminary cost feedback at schematic and design development phases. Expect rough pricing (+/− 15–25%).
• Third-party estimator: $1,500–$5,000 for a detailed takeoff on a custom home.
• Target value design: Give your team a firm budget and ask them to design to it with alternates.

Tactics:

• Define allowances (tile, lighting, appliances) realistically.
• Use add/deduct alternates (e.g., “upgrade to standing seam metal roof: +$X”).
• Ask your drafter to dimension windows for standard sizes when possible to avoid custom premiums.

Example:

• During design development, we learned the window package had grown to $84,000. By standardizing sizes and reducing two specialty corner windows, we trimmed $18,500 with minimal impact on light and views.

Step 16: Risk register and red flags

A simple one-page risk log can save you months.

Common risks:

• Unknown soils or high water table.
• Utility capacity upgrades (power company lead times are long in some areas).
• Permit backlog or discretionary approvals.
• Neighbor objections, historic commission.
• Hazmat in existing structures (asbestos, lead).
• Tree removal permits and mitigation fees.
• Supply chain: long-lead items like custom windows or switchgear.
• Weather windows for grading/concrete.

Mitigation:

• Sequence surveys and testing early.
• Submit pre-application to planning.
• Order long-lead items as soon as permit is within sight, aligned with builder’s schedule.
• Keep contingency intact until foundation is in and framing is underway.

Step 17: Funding and finance prep

If you’re using a construction loan or HELOC, lenders want paperwork.

What lenders often require:

• Signed construction contract or detailed cost breakdown.
• Full plan set and engineering.
• Permit or at least “ready-to-issue” status.
• Project timeline and draw schedule.
• Proof of equity/down payment and reserves.

Tips:

• Talk to lenders early to understand draw fees, interest carry, and inspection cadence.
• Appraisers rely on plans and specs—clear, realistic material descriptions help support value.
• Keep your design contingency separate from lender contingency so you can handle surprises without re-approvals.

Step 18: Your documentation toolkit and template

Create a shared folder with subfolders:

• 00_Admin: contracts, meeting notes, decision log, risk register, schedule.
• 01_Site: survey, title, zoning summary, photos, utility maps, geotech.
• 02_Program: room worksheets, adjacency diagrams, must-have list.
• 03_Budget: spreadsheet with soft costs, allowances, contingency.
• 04_Design: inspiration images with annotations, HOA guidelines, finish preferences.
• 05_Systems: performance targets, mechanical preferences, electrical loads.
• 06_Permits: forms, submittal checklists, agency correspondence.
• 07_Engineering: structural, civil, energy calcs, reports.

Maintain:

• Decision log (date, decision, who decided, impact on cost/schedule).
• RFI log for your drafter/engineer questions.
• Change log with cost implications to avoid surprises.

Case studies

Case study 1: Urban infill remodel with tight setbacks

• Scope: Add a second story to a 1940s bungalow on a 35’ lot.
• Challenge: Zero lot-line garage, historic facade, strict daylight plane.
• Pre-design moves:
• Boundary survey confirmed neighbor’s fence encroached 1.5’.
• As-builts revealed unpermitted porch conversion; we addressed it in the permit with a legalizing note.
• Program prioritized three bedrooms upstairs with laundry; sound separation was a must.
• Outcome:
• We used a staggered second floor to meet daylight planes and kept the historic street face.
• Anticipated plan check comments by including a detailed code summary and historic compatibility statement.
• Permitting in 11 weeks, only one round of comments. The neighbor’s fence issue was handled before submittal instead of derailing the review.

Case study 2: Rural new build with septic and wildfire constraints

• Scope: 2,100 sf single-story, sloped site, no municipal sewer, WUI.
• Pre-design moves:
• Perc test and preliminary septic layout influenced bedroom count and house placement.
• WUI: selected Class A metal roof, fiber cement siding, and ember-resistant details; reduced deck size near slope.
• Oriented main living south for winter sun, deep overhangs for summer shade.
• Outcome:
• Septic area and 100’ defensible space defined the building footprint; saved design time by accepting those constraints upfront.
• Energy modeling early let us right-size HVAC and qualify for a local incentive.
• From survey to permit in 16 weeks with minimal comments.

Case study 3: Coastal ADU with strict design review

• Scope: 640 sf ADU behind a primary residence, within a coastal overlay zone.
• Pre-design moves:
• Pre-application meeting uncovered a little-known height measurement rule from natural grade; we dropped the floor 14” to comply.
• Worked with HOA early; provided material boards and color samples.
• Planned for a future battery by adding a subpanel for critical loads.
• Outcome:
• Design review approved on first pass, permit in 9 weeks. If we hadn’t adjusted height early, we’d have faced a redesign and resubmittal.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

• Designing without a survey: This is the fastest path to permit rejection and redraw fees.
• Vague budget: “We’ll figure it out” leads to sticker shock later. Define a target with contingency.
• Skipping the program: Without room-by-room needs, your plan becomes a Pinterest collage.
• Underestimating soft costs: Permits, engineering, and fees can total 8–15% or more.
• Ignoring mechanical space: Crammed plans lead to ductwork compromises and noise.
• Delaying appliance and plumbing selections: Rough-ins need specs. Decide early.
• Overcomplicating roofs and massing: Every bump and valley costs money and creates leak points.
• Forgetting future flexibility: No place for a lift, no blocking for bars, no conduit for solar—small misses with big future costs.
• Not engaging neighbors when appropriate: While not always required, a friendly heads-up defuses opposition in tight neighborhoods.

Ready-to-use pre-design checklist (condensed)

Copy and adapt this list for your project:

• Goals and scope
• One-paragraph project narrative
• Must-haves vs. nice-to-haves list
• Target size and room count
• Budget target and cap with contingency

• Site and due diligence
• Deed and title report
• Boundary and topo survey
• Zoning summary (setbacks, height, FAR, parking)
• Utility availability and capacity
• Geotech, perc test (as needed)
• Flood/WUI/historic overlays
• HOA guidelines and timelines

• Existing conditions (remodels)
• As-built plans and measurements
• Photo log (attic, crawlspace, panel, mech)
• Hazmat test if suspect materials

• Program and performance
• Room-by-room worksheets and adjacency diagram
• Daylight/view priorities
• Energy and IAQ targets (ACH50, insulation, windows)
• Mechanical preferences (heat pump, ERV, HPWH)
• Acoustics and durability goals

• Aesthetic and materials
• Inspiration images with annotations
• Materials and color mood board

• Systems and infrastructure
• Electrical loads (EV, induction, workshop)
• Panel size and subpanel needs
• Low-voltage and data plan
• Plumbing strategy (recirc, manifold)
• Solar/battery readiness

• Schedule and process
• Preliminary timeline and decision calendar
• Risk register and mitigation plan
• Communication plan and file-sharing setup

• Deliverables and team
• List of required drawings and calculations
• Questions for drafter
• Cost-check plan (GC or estimator involvement)

What to prepare before meeting a drafting professional

Bring a tidy packet. You’ll look like the dream client you are.

• PDF packet:
• Site documents: survey, title, zoning summary, utilities, geotech.
• Program: room list, adjacency sketch, must-have list.
• Inspiration: top 20 images with notes.
• Performance and systems: targets and preferences.
• Budget: range, contingency, any cost ceilings by space.
• Schedule: desired permit date, any hard deadlines.
• Digital folder with all files and labeled photos.
• Questions list (see next section).
• One-page “decision maker” guide: who signs off on what and how quickly.

Questions to ask a drafting professional

• How many projects have you permitted in this jurisdiction in the last two years?
• Can I see a recent full plan set similar to my project?
• What’s included in your base fee and what’s extra (site visits, renderings, plan check revisions)?
• What’s your typical turnaround for a revision set?
• How do you coordinate with structural, civil, and energy consultants?
• Do you provide a code summary sheet and energy compliance forms?
• What software do you use, and will I receive the native files?
• How many schematic options will you provide before we narrow down?
• What is your process for addressing plan reviewer comments?
• How do you handle changes after engineering has started?
• Do you do field measurements for remodels or prefer owner-provided as-builts?
• What’s your approach to building performance (airtightness, insulation, window specs)?
• How do you ensure coordination between drawings (e.g., window schedule matches elevations)?
• Can you provide a not-to-exceed estimate for foreseeable hourly items?
• What’s your current workload and realistic start date?

Time and cost ranges for drafting services

Ranges vary by region and scope, but these ballparks help set expectations:

• Hourly: $80–$150+ per hour depending on experience and location.
• New custom home (permit set only, not full architecture):
• 1–3% of construction cost, or $1.50–$5.00 per sf of living area.
• Remodels/additions:
• 2–8% of construction cost, or $2.50–$8.00 per sf of affected area.
• Extras:
• 3D renderings: $500–$4,000 depending on detail.
• Site visits: $150–$400 each.
• Coordination with engineers: sometimes hourly.

Deliverable clarity reduces surprises. Request a written scope that lists sheet count, included details, and number of revision cycles.

Practical tips from the field

• Bring appliances to design: Even just widths and depths. Ovens, fridges, and range hoods drive cabinet and duct layouts.
• Doors and swings: Decide left/right swings early. It affects electrical, furniture, and circulation.
• Stairs: If you’re tempted to shrink them, don’t. Comfortable stair design (tread depth 10.5”, riser ≤7.75”, consistent) prevents daily regret.
• Mudroom magic: 18–24” per person for lockers/hooks feels generous. Add an outlet for cordless vacs and a charging drawer.
• Lighting layers: Put task lights where you’ll actually chop, read, or work. Under-cabinet lights beat another can light every time.
• Attic and mechanical chases: Draw real duct runs and bath fan vent routes during design. It’s not overkill; it’s coordination.

A step-by-step sequence to follow

Use this order to keep momentum:

1. Call planning department for a quick zoning and process overview.
2. Order survey (boundary + topo) and any required tests (perc, geotech).
3. Draft your project narrative, must-have list, and budget framework.
4. Create room worksheets and adjacency sketches.
5. Set performance targets and systems preferences.
6. Collect inspiration images and materials ideas.
7. Build your documentation folder and decision log.
8. Shortlist drafters; review portfolios and sample sets.
9. Hold a discovery meeting with your top pick; refine scope and fee.
10. Kick off schematic design with clear deliverables and meeting cadence.

A sample room-by-room worksheet (kitchen example)

• Size: 240–300 sf, island 10’x4’ minimum.
• Key items: 36” induction range, 30” wall oven, 24” steam oven, 42” fridge, 24” dishwasher x2.
• Storage: Walk-in pantry 6’x8’ with countertop for small appliances.
• Clearances: 42” around island, 48” at main prep zone.
• Sinks: 36” main sink with pullout trash; 18” prep sink on island.
• Venting: 600 CFM hood with make-up air strategy.
• Power: Outlet in island drawer, dedicated circuits for espresso machine and microwave drawer.
• Lighting: Pendants over island, under-cabinet lights, recessed task lights.
• Finishes: Quartz countertops, full-height slab backsplash at range, durable flooring.
• Adjacent to: Dining, outdoor grill, mudroom/garage via pantry.

Hand this to your drafter and watch how much smoother decisions get.

Permitting packets and how to make reviewers smile

• Provide a clean code summary on the title sheet (occupancy, construction type, applicable codes, wind/seismic, energy method).
• Label all rooms, include square footages and calculations for FAR/lot coverage on the site plan.
• Dimension setbacks clearly and include a zoning compliance chart.
• Call out egress windows and safety glazing.
• Provide manufacturer cut sheets for specialty items if required (e.g., fireplaces, ERVs).
• Include drainage arrows and spot grades if your jurisdiction wants them.
• Add a sheet index and consistent sheet numbering.

Reviewers are busy. Clarity shortens their work and your approval time.

How to choose between a drafter and an architect

There’s overlap, but a few rules of thumb:

• Choose a drafting-focused pro if:
• You have a clear vision and strong program.
• Site constraints are straightforward.
• You want efficient documentation and code navigation at a lower fee.

• Choose an architect/designer-led team if:
• You want concept exploration and multiple design iterations.
• The site is complex (steep hillside, historic context, tricky massing).
• You value custom detailing and a stronger design hand.

Hybrid approach:

• Some clients hire an architect for schematic design and a drafter for permit documentation with the architect consulting. Clarify roles to avoid duplication.

Permit timing, fees, and how to budget for them

Fees vary dramatically by jurisdiction, but here’s a sample range:

• Building permit and plan check: $1,500–$10,000+ depending on size and city.
• Impact fees (schools, parks, transportation): $5,000–$40,000+ in some areas.
• Sewer and water connection fees: $1,000–$15,000+ (new service lines can add more).
• Fire department review: $200–$1,500.
• Energy compliance filings: $200–$800 if separate.
• Misc: Tree removal permit, encroachment permits for driveway tie-ins.

Action: Ask your building department for a fee estimate worksheet. Many cities provide a calculator.

What your drafter needs from you to start

• Signed proposal and retainer.
• Survey and site documents in PDF and CAD (if available).
• Program and priorities in writing.
• Inspiration package.
• Budget range and known allowances.
• Performance targets and system preferences.
• Decision-making process and schedule.

The more complete your pre-design packet, the fewer assumptions the drafter has to make.

A final word on mindset

Pre-design isn’t busywork. It’s the foundation you build the entire project on. If you invest a few focused weeks assembling the items above, you’ll avoid the two most painful outcomes in residential construction: a plan you can’t afford and a permit you can’t get. Your drafting professional will thank you, your future self will thank you, and your project will move with confidence instead of chaos.

Ready to get moving? Open a fresh folder on your computer and start with four files:

• Project Narrative
• Budget Framework
• Program Worksheets
• Site Documents

Spend one evening on each this week. By the time you interview drafters, you’ll be miles ahead—and it will show.