How to Prevent Landscaping from Damaging Your Foundation

Most homeowners don’t plant a shrub or run a sprinkler thinking, “This could crack my foundation.” Yet I’ve been called to hundreds of homes where beautiful landscaping quietly created the perfect conditions for settlement, leaks, moldy basements, and five-figure repair bills. The good news: with a few smart guidelines, your yard can look great and actually protect your foundation instead of hurting it. Here’s the playbook I use on real projects.

How Landscaping Damages Foundations (and Why It Happens)

Before we get into fixes, it helps to understand the chain reaction.

• Water is the driver: Too much water, or too little, affects the soil that supports your foundation.
• Soil moves: Clay swells when wet and shrinks when dry. Sands don’t hold moisture but can wash out. Silts do a bit of both. Movement is normal—uneven movement is the problem.
• Roots chase moisture: Tree and shrub roots can dry out soils near the foundation or expand cracks and drains looking for water. They’re not “breaking” concrete—they exploit weaknesses and change moisture balance.
• Surface features can channel water: A slightly mis-graded bed, a downspout dumping by the wall, or a patio tilted the wrong way can funnel hundreds of gallons into your backfill.

A roof sheds an incredible amount of water. One inch of rain on a 1,000-square-foot roof produces roughly 623 gallons. If your gutters and grading don’t push that away, your foundation gets a bath. Repeat that over years and it’s no surprise we see damp basements, bowed walls, and settlement.

Foundation repairs commonly run $3,000–$30,000 depending on the fix, and drainage corrections are almost always cheaper than structural work. Preventing problems is a lot less painful than underpinning later.

A Quick Self-Assessment: Walk Your Yard Like a Pro

Spend 30 minutes with a tape measure, a level (or a string line), and a notepad. Here’s the exact walkthrough I do on consults.

1. Check the slope at the perimeter – Look for at least a 5% slope away from the house for the first 10 feet. That’s about a 6-inch drop over 10 feet. – If you don’t have 10 feet to work with (tight lots), aim for 2% slope and use drains to help.

1. Inspect gutters and downspouts – Are gutters clean and securely attached? Sagging sections spill water. – Downspouts should discharge at least 6–10 feet from the foundation. Extensions are cheap; use them. – Look for splash marks or erosion below downspouts—signs water is pounding the same spot.

1. Observe where water goes after rain – Any puddles within 10 feet of the house? – Mulch or soil crusted/hard? That often means runoff rather than absorption.

1. Irrigation audit – Are spray heads hitting the house, windows, or foundation? That’s wasted water and a moisture source. – Drip lines too close to the wall? Move emitters at least 18–24 inches from the foundation edge unless a pro has specified a moisture-management plan for expansive soils.

1. Plants near the foundation – Note plant species and mature sizes (not what they look like now). Overgrown shrubs and thirsty trees right against the home are red flags. – Can you see at least 6–8 inches of exposed foundation? Mulch, soil, or edging piled too high invites pests and moisture.

1. Hardscape check – Does your patio or walkway slope away from the house? Hold a 4-foot level or pour a cup of water and watch where it flows. – Gaps or settled sections against the foundation trap water.

1. Basement windows and wells – Do wells have covers? Is there gravel at the base? Standing water in a well usually means no drain or a clogged one.

1. Soil type and climate clues – Cracks in dry weather and doors sticking after heavy rain are classic signs of expansive clay. Sandy soils will show erosion and washouts more than cracks. – In cold zones, look for frost heave near walkways or steps beside the foundation.

Make a punch list from what you find. Most problems are simple fixes if you catch them early.

Get the Grade Right: The First, Best Line of Defense

If the soil doesn’t slope away, everything else is a Band-Aid. Here’s how to correct grading properly.

The target

• Minimum 5% slope away from the foundation for at least the first 10 feet (6 inches of drop). If you have less room, compensate with drains and tighter control over irrigation.
• Keep at least 6 inches of exposed foundation above grade. Many siding manufacturers want 6–8 inches clear of soil/mulch to reduce rot and pest risk.

Step-by-step regrading

1. Strip the area next to the home – Pull back mulch, plants, and edging 8–10 feet from the foundation.

1. Add appropriate fill – Use a compactable fill like clay-loam or a structural fill, not loose topsoil or sand right against the foundation. – Avoid piling soil against siding. Keep the clearance.

1. Shape the slope – Use a long 2×4 and a level or a string line from the foundation out 10 feet. Aim for a 6-inch drop. – In tight spaces, create a subtle swale (shallow channel) to guide water to a safe discharge point.

1. Compact in lifts – Place soil in 3–4 inch layers, compact with a hand tamper or plate compactor. Loose fill will settle and recreate low spots.

1. Add topsoil and groundcover – Once you’ve built slope with compactable fill, add 2–4 inches of topsoil for planting or turf. – Grass roots help stabilize. If you don’t want grass, use groundcovers instead of loose rock.

1. Finish with mulch (2–3 inches) – Keep mulch a few inches back from the foundation, and leave that 6–8 inch inspection gap.

Costs and time

• DIY: $150–$800 for soil, compactor rental, and materials depending on scope.
• Pro grading: $1,500–$5,000 for a typical home perimeter with minor rework.
• Timeline: A long weekend DIY for 1–2 sides; a pro can often do a full perimeter in 1–2 days.

Common mistake: Skipping compaction. Freshly dumped topsoil looks great for a week and then slumps, creating a bathtub around the house. Compact the base material, then add topsoil.

Drainage That Works (Without Flooding Your Neighbor)

Good grading moves water, but smart drainage gives it a place to go.

The essentials

• Gutters sized right: 6-inch K-style gutters handle more volume than standard 5-inch, important on large or complex roofs.
• Downspout extensions: Run them 6–10 feet away or into a solid pipe to daylight.
• Splash blocks: Better than nothing, but extensions move water farther.
• Dry wells or daylight: If you can’t discharge to a lower point, a dry well (a gravel-filled pit) can take downspout water.

French drains and swales

• French drain: A perforated pipe wrapped in filter fabric, set in gravel, sloped 1% to daylight or a dry well. Best for collecting subsurface water and relieving soggy soils.
• Swale: A shallow grassed channel that carries surface runoff. Easy to maintain and neighbor-friendly if properly sloped and not concentrated onto their property.

Budget ranges:

• Downspout extensions: $10–$50 each DIY.
• Dry well kits: $200–$600 plus excavation.
• French drain (pro install): $25–$50 per linear foot, more if deep or in tight access.
• Swale grading: Often included in overall grading costs.

Legal note: Many municipalities prohibit concentrating runoff onto adjacent properties. The goal is to manage water on your site or discharge to approved locations (street, storm inlet). If you’re in an HOA, get approvals before major grading changes.

Sump pump discharge

If you have a sump pump, route the discharge 10–20 feet from the house, ideally to daylight. A common mistake is dumping it right beside the foundation or into the sewer (usually illegal). In cold climates, use freeze-resistant hose or a buried line with a pop-up emitter.

Planting Near the House: Distance and Species Matter

You can absolutely have shrubs and trees near the home—just pick the right ones and give them room.

The rule of thumb for placement

• Groundcovers and perennials: 1–2 feet from the foundation. Keep drip emitters off the wall.
• Small shrubs (3–5 feet tall mature): 3–5 feet from the foundation.
• Large shrubs/ornamental trees (8–15 feet tall mature): 6–10 feet from the foundation.
• Small trees (15–25 feet tall mature): 10–20 feet from the foundation.
• Large trees (over 25 feet tall mature): 20–50 feet from the foundation, depending on species and soil type.

Err on the generous side in expansive clay soils.

Species to avoid close to the foundation

Anything known for aggressive, moisture-seeking roots or very high water demand. The worst offenders:

• Willow, cottonwood, poplar, silver maple, elm, eucalyptus
• River birch (loves moisture; great tree, plant it well away)
• Bamboo (running types) – treat this like landscaping dynamite near a foundation and utilities

Foundation-friendly options

• Shrubs: Boxwood, inkberry holly, dwarf yaupon, spirea, hydrangea (macrophylla away from southern sun), dwarf nandina, fragrant abelia
• Small trees: Japanese maple, serviceberry, redbud, dwarf crape myrtle, magnolia ‘Little Gem’ (mind the mature size)
• Groundcovers: Pachysandra, ajuga, creeping thyme, liriope, blue star creeper

Always check mature size, not the plant at the nursery. I’ve seen countless 3-gallon shrubs become 8-foot beasts plastered against siding.

Root barriers

When you want a tree near a hardscape or to protect buried lines:

• Use a commercial HDPE root barrier 30–48 inches deep along the edge you want to protect (not a complete “box” around the tree, which can girdle roots).
• Install at planting or when making a landscape change. Retrofitting later is harder.

Professional tip: Consult an ISA-certified arborist for barrier placement and species selection near foundations or in shrink-swell soils.

Irrigation Without Soaking Your Foundation

Most foundation problems tied to landscaping aren’t dramatic floods—they’re slow, persistent moisture imbalances caused by irrigation.

Sprinkler and drip guidelines

• Keep spray heads from hitting the house. Water contacting walls wastes water and soaks brick, stucco, or siding.
• Place drip lines at least 18–24 inches from the foundation edge unless used for controlled moisture management in expansive soils under professional direction.
• Use matched precipitation rate nozzles so you don’t overwater some zones and starve others.
• Avoid placing high-flow heads (rotors) right beside the house. Micro-spray or drip is safer near the foundation.

Watering strategy

• Water deeply and infrequently for plants; roots will grow downward, not toward your foundation to chase daily shallow water.
• Adjust seasonally. Smart controllers (weather-based) cost $100–$300 and can cut water use 20–40%.
• Use soil moisture sensors near trouble spots (downspout areas, heavy clay beds). $40–$120 per sensor can prevent overwatering.

Special case: expansive clay in drought

In parts of Texas and the Midwest, maintaining more consistent soil moisture around the foundation helps prevent shrink-swell cycles. The old “soaker hose around the house” advice has truth, but do it right:

• Place the hose 12–18 inches from the foundation, not against it.
• Run briefly and consistently during hot, dry periods—start with 15–30 minutes every other day and adjust based on soil feel and minor crack behavior.
• Don’t turn the area into a moat. The goal is even moisture, not soggy soil.

If you need this approach, it’s a sign to revisit grading and drainage too. Watering shouldn’t be your primary fix.

Mulch, Beds, and What Sits Against the Wall

Mulch is great for plant health and water retention, but it’s easy to overdo it in ways that hurt your home.

• Depth: 2–3 inches is plenty. Piling mulch “volcanoes” against shrubs also piles moisture against your wall.
• Keep a gap: Leave a 2–4 inch gap between mulch and the foundation. Create a shallow mulch-free perimeter for inspection and airflow.
• Maintain clearance: Keep 6–8 inches of exposed foundation above grade and mulch. This also reduces termite risk and complies with most siding manufacturer requirements.
• Landscape fabric: Under rock beds, use a permeable geotextile to separate rock from soil. Under organic mulch, fabric often causes water to run off and roots to mat on top—skip it and use pre-emergent plus periodic refreshing instead.
• Rock vs mulch: Rock holds heat and can increase runoff. If you use rock near the foundation, make sure the area is well-sloped and drained so you don’t create a hardscape bathtub.

Pest tip: Rubber mulch and cedar chips don’t magically repel termites, but they don’t break down as quickly as wood mulch. The bigger issue is moisture and hidden pathways. Keep that inspection gap.

Patios, Walkways, and Hardscapes Adjacent to the House

Hard surfaces can either be your drainage ally or your enemy.

Slope and joints

• Slope away 1–2% minimum. Water should never sit against the house.
• Install expansion joints between hardscape and the foundation to allow differential movement and prevent water channeling into micro-gaps.
• Seal the joint with a high-quality, flexible sealant designed for exterior horizontal joints, especially near basements.

Permeable vs conventional

• Permeable pavers allow water to seep into a prepared base and away, which can reduce surface runoff. They work best when connected to a sub-base drainage plan, not just dropped on compacted soil.
• Conventional pavers or concrete are fine if they’re sloped correctly and supported by well-compacted base.

Costs:

• Conventional pavers: $12–$25 per square foot installed in many markets.
• Permeable pavers: $18–$35 per square foot installed due to more complex base prep.
• Concrete patios: $8–$18 per square foot, more with decorative finishes.

Retaining walls

If your yard slopes toward the house, a small retaining wall with a drain behind it can redirect water:

• Use crushed stone backfill, a perforated drainpipe at the base, and weep holes or drain outlets.
• Taller walls may need geogrid reinforcement and engineering.
• Cost: Small landscape walls often run $20–$50 per square foot of face; engineered walls go higher.

Common mistake: Building a patio exactly level with the sill or door threshold. You want the hardscape at least 2–3 inches below the threshold and sloping away to prevent wind-driven rain intrusion.

Managing Basements, Window Wells, and Below-Grade Risks

Any hole in the ground wants to collect water. Treat window wells like mini drainage systems.

• Gravel base: 6–12 inches of clean 3/4-inch gravel at the bottom helps drainage.
• Drain outlet: Ideally, a vertical pipe tied into the footing drain or a dry well. If you don’t have a footing drain, you can create a dry well a few feet away.
• Covers: A clear, domed cover keeps leaves and roof splash from filling the well. They also reduce snow buildup in cold climates.
• Backfill: If your basement walls were waterproofed, avoid nicking the membrane when gardening. Use hand tools near the wall.

If you see water in wells after rain, fix it promptly. Those wells can fill, leak, and rot window frames.

Soil Health and Moisture Balance

Your soil type should guide your landscaping strategy.

Expansive clays

• Behavior: Swell with moisture, shrink when dry. They move the most close to grade level and less with depth.
• Strategy: Maintain even moisture with controlled irrigation and mulched beds. Avoid heavy shrubs right against the foundation. Keep gutters and downspouts dialed in.
• Warning signs: Cracking along mortar joints, sticking doors after rain, gaps at the slab edge in drought.

Sandy soils

• Behavior: Drain quickly, prone to erosion and washouts.
• Strategy: Use organic matter and groundcovers to slow runoff. Swales and French drains help channel water without eroding soil. Avoid concentrating downspouts in one spot.

Silts/loams

• Behavior: Moderate drainage, can compact and hold water.
• Strategy: Maintain slope, avoid compaction near the foundation, and use deep-rooted plants to stabilize.

Consider a simple soil test (extension office kits are typically under $20). Knowing your soil helps you predict how water moves and what plantings make sense near your home.

Gutters: The Cheapest Insurance You Can Buy

Gutters and downspouts don’t get much glory, but they prevent a long list of problems.

• Size up: If water sheets over the edge during heavy rain, upgrade to 6-inch gutters and add more downspouts.
• Spacing: One downspout for roughly every 600–800 square feet of roof is a common rule, adjusted for roof pitch and local rainfall intensity.
• Extensions: Use rigid or flexible extensions to kick water 6–10 feet from the foundation.
• Guards: Leaf guards help in wooded lots, but they aren’t magic. You’ll still need periodic cleaning.
• Maintenance: Clean 2–4 times per year depending on trees. Check after major wind or ice events.

A $12 downspout extension often saves thousands in repair work. Don’t overthink this one.

Crawlspaces and Slab Homes

Landscaping affects more than basements.

Crawlspaces

• Keep vents clear of plants and soil. Don’t bury vents behind shrubs or raised beds.
• Ensure the ground slopes away from vents and access doors. Water pooling outside often equals humidity inside.
• Inside the crawlspace, use a proper vapor barrier (6–20 mil plastic), sealing seams and running it up piers a few inches.

Slab-on-grade

• Exposed slab edge should remain visible around the perimeter where applicable. Don’t bury the slab edge in mulch or soil.
• In hot-dry regions, avoid rock beds pressed up against the slab—rock can amplify heat and dry out adjacent soil, increasing slab edge movement in clays.

Cold Climate Considerations

Frost and snow add their own twists.

• Downspout freeze: Use larger-diameter extensions and consider buried lines with pop-up emitters below frost depth, with a relief near the house for freeze events.
• Snow storage: Don’t pile snow against the foundation. When it melts, you’ve made a seasonal lake.
• Walkway heave: Pavers or slabs beside the house can heave and tilt toward the foundation. Reset them in spring if needed and ensure the base is free-draining.

Real-World Scenarios and What We Did

Case 1: Over-irrigated beds, wet basement (Pacific Northwest)

A 1940s bungalow had musty odors and peeling paint on basement walls. The front beds were lush but watered daily with sprays that hit the brick. The soil next to the foundation was level with the sill.

What we did:

• Regraded 12 feet out with a 5% slope and lowered grade to expose 8 inches of foundation.
• Swapped spray irrigation for drip lines 24 inches from the wall.
• Added 10-foot downspout extensions and a dry well for one corner.
• Installed a clear window well cover.

Total cost: About $3,200. The basement dried out within weeks, and the musty smell disappeared after a dehumidifier ran for a month.

Case 2: Texas clay, drought cracks, and foundation movement

A single-story home in expansive clay showed 1/4-inch stair-step cracks and doors sticking after a brutal summer. Landscaping included rock beds pressed against the slab and a dead lawn.

What we did:

• Removed rock against the slab and created a 12-inch soil buffer with mulch.
• Installed 6-inch gutters and two additional downspouts, with 10-foot extensions.
• Set up a controlled soaker hose regimen (15–20 minutes every other day during peak drought) 12–18 inches from the slab.
• Planted drought-tolerant groundcovers to stabilize moisture.

Total cost: ~$2,800 (gutters, minor grading, irrigation tweak). Doors stabilized and cracks stopped progressing. We documented movement for six months; no underpinning needed.

Case 3: Negative patio slope, recurring seepage (Midwest)

A concrete patio had settled 1–2 inches toward the house, sending every rain into the basement entry.

What we did:

• Removed and replaced the patio with permeable pavers sloped 2% away.
• Installed a channel drain at the threshold tied to a daylight line.
• Lowered soil at the adjacent bed to restore 7 inches of foundation exposure.

Total cost: ~$7,500. Basement remained dry in subsequent storms.

Case 4: Mature tree too close, soil desiccation (UK-style shrink-swell scenario, similar in some US regions)

A large willow 12 feet from the corner of a home on heavy clay caused differential settlement—cracks opened in summer and closed partially in winter.

What we did:

• Consulted an arborist; staged reduction of the willow’s crown to lower water demand over two seasons (complete removal risked heave).
• Installed a root barrier between the tree and structure.
• Improved perimeter drainage and regraded the affected elevation.

Total cost: ~$4,800 over two years. Movement stabilized. Full removal may have caused clay heave; staged management was safer.

Common Mistakes That Invite Trouble

• Planting based on current size, not mature size. A “cute little” arborvitae becomes a siding-scratcher and moisture trap.
• Burying the foundation. Soil and mulch creep up over time—reset the grade every few years.
• Short downspouts. Anything under 4 feet is usually too short.
• Irrigating daily. Shallow, frequent watering is bad for plants and foundations alike.
• Rock moats against the house. They look tidy but can concentrate water and heat.
• Patio slopes toward the home. I see this constantly on DIY installs.
• Window wells with no cover or drain. They become clogged bathtubs.
• Redirecting water to your neighbor. Water law headaches ensue.

Step-by-Step Projects You Can Do in a Weekend

Add downspout extensions

• Materials: Extensions, elbows, screws, straps (if burying: solid pipe, fittings, pop-up emitter).
• Steps: Attach, secure to keep from blowing off, and test with a hose. If burying, maintain at least 1% slope to the outlet.
• Cost: $20–$200 per downspout.

Create a simple swale

• Tools: Shovel, rake, level/string line.
• Steps: Mark the path where water should go. Shape a shallow U-channel 6–12 inches deep, 2–3 feet wide, sloped 1–2% to a safe discharge point. Seed with grass or use erosion control fabric until established.
• Cost: $50–$300 DIY.

Convert sprays to drip in foundation beds

• Materials: 1/2-inch drip tubing, emitters (0.5–1 gph), fittings, filter/pressure regulator.
• Steps: Cap or replace spray heads with drip conversion kits. Run drip lines 18–24 inches from the foundation, adjust emitters for plant needs. Mulch over tubing.
• Cost: $100–$300 per zone.

Reestablish foundation exposure

• Tools: Spade, rake, wheelbarrow.
• Steps: Pull mulch/soil back from the wall, trim plants, and set edging to keep material from creeping back. Aim for 6–8 inches of visible foundation.
• Cost: Mostly elbow grease.

New Construction and Major Renovations: Get It Right Up Front

Good builders think about drainage from the first shovel-full.

• Overdig and backfill: Compact backfill in lifts around the foundation, not just dump and run. Loosely backfilled soil will settle and hold water against the wall.
• Waterproof properly: Use a full waterproofing membrane, not just damp-proofing, if you have living space below grade. Protect the membrane with drainage board.
• Perimeter drains: Install a perforated footing drain to daylight or a sump. Cover with proper stone and filter fabric to prevent clogging.
• Lot grading plan: Ensure finished grade moves water to designated swales and inlets. Coordinate with driveway and patio elevations.
• Window well drains and covers: Don’t leave them as an afterthought.
• Downspout routing: Plan outlets away from planting beds and utilities.

The cost to do this right during construction is modest compared to retrofits later.

Retrofitting Older Homes Safely

Working around old foundations takes a careful touch.

• Avoid deep digging right against the wall; you can destabilize older footings. If you need deep drainage work, involve a pro.
• Be gentle with waterproofing on brick or stone foundations—don’t trap moisture in old walls with non-breathable coatings unless the system is designed for it.
• Choose plants that don’t require constant irrigation near the home to reduce moisture cycling against aged materials.

Budget Planner: Smart Moves at Any Price Point

• Under $100
• Downspout splash blocks or basic extensions
• Gutter cleaning tools
• Mulch reset to re-expose foundation
• Hose-end soil moisture meter

• $100–$500
• Smart irrigation controller
• Drip conversion kit for foundation beds
• Compactor rental and soil for minor regrading
• Window well covers

• $500–$2,500
• Professional gutter upgrade or additional downspouts
• French drain for a side yard
• Patio joint sealing and resetting settled edges
• Arborist consult and root barrier for small areas

• $2,500–$10,000
• Full perimeter grading and drainage corrections
• Patio replacement with correct slope or permeable system
• Engineered retaining solution for slope toward house

• $10,000+
• Major lot regrading, multiple drains, large retaining walls
• Foundation waterproofing and drainage overhaul

Spending a little on gutters, grading, and irrigation control prevents spending a lot on structural fixes.

When to Call a Pro

• Structural engineer:
• Cracks wider than 1/4 inch
• Doors/windows sticking with observable wall movement
• Significant uneven floors
• You’re considering underpinning or wall bracing

• Drainage contractor/civil engineer:
• Chronic water pooling near the home
• Complex sites with limited discharge options
• You need a stamped drainage plan for permits/HOA

• ISA-certified arborist:
• Mature trees within 20–30 feet of the house in clay soils
• Considering root barriers or staged reductions
• Visible roots near foundation or hardscapes

• Licensed irrigator:
• Complex system retrofits, backflow issues
• Converting high-flow zones to drip across multiple beds

Permits and HOA: Many areas require permits for retaining walls, major grading, and drainage tie-ins. HOAs often control visible drainage changes and tree removals. A quick check up front saves headaches.

Seasonal Maintenance Checklist

Spring

• Clean gutters and test downspouts with a hose.
• Inspect for winter heave near the foundation. Reset pavers/slabs as needed.
• Refresh mulch to 2–3 inches but maintain the inspection gap.
• Turn on irrigation, check for overspray, and adjust zones.

Summer

• Monitor soil moisture in clays during heat waves. Use controlled soaker hose watering if needed.
• Watch plant growth; trim shrubs away from siding and vents.
• Confirm downspout extensions remain attached (storms love to toss them).

Fall

• Final gutter cleanout after leaves drop.
• Ensure downspout outlets are clear before winter.
• Cut back irrigation run times as temperatures fall.

Winter

• Keep snow piles away from the foundation.
• Check downspout discharge areas after thaws; ice dams of ground-level runoff can redirect water toward the house.

Tools and Materials I Actually Use

• 6-inch K-style gutters and adequately sized downspouts
• Rigid downspout extensions or 4-inch solid PVC to pop-up emitters
• HDPE root barrier panels (30–48 inches deep)
• 3/4-inch clean crushed stone for drains and window wells
• Filter fabric (permeable geotextile) for separation under rock
• Pressure-compensating drip emitters and a 25–30 psi regulator
• String line, line level, and a 4-foot level for slope checks
• Plate compactor for regrading
• Quality exterior joint sealant for patio/foundation transitions

Quick Answers to Common Questions

• How far should plants be from the foundation?
• Shrubs: 3–5 feet. Small trees: 10–20 feet. Large trees: 20–50 feet depending on species and soil.

• Are French drains always the answer?
• No. Start with grading and downspouts. French drains are great for soggy soils and collecting subsurface water but won’t fix roof water dumping next to the wall.

• Is mulch really a termite magnet?
• Mulch doesn’t attract termites by itself, but it keeps soil moist and can hide activity. Maintain a visible foundation and don’t pile mulch against the wall.

• Can roots break my foundation?
• Roots exploit cracks and weaknesses and can dry soil, causing movement. They rarely “break” sound concrete, but they can cause damage indirectly.

• Should I water my foundation?
• In expansive clays, consistent moisture helps. Do it carefully and as part of an overall drainage plan—don’t mask poor grading with water.

A Practical Roadmap: What To Do This Month

If you do nothing else, take these steps:

1. Add or extend downspouts to 6–10 feet. Test with a hose.
2. Re-establish at least 6 inches of visible foundation. Pull back mulch and soil.
3. Check slopes. Add soil and compact to get a 5% fall over 10 feet.
4. Adjust irrigation. Stop watering the wall. Convert nearby zones to drip.
5. Trim or relocate thirsty plants crowding the foundation. Plan replacements by mature size.
6. Cover and drain window wells. Clean them out and add gravel if needed.
7. Make a seasonal calendar reminder to clean gutters and re-check slopes.

Each of these steps is cheap, fast, and effective. Together, they prevent the slow, quiet deterioration I see too often.

Final Thoughts from the Field

The best landscapes look effortless, but the craftsmanship is in the water management you don’t see. I’ve rarely met a foundation problem that didn’t start with small lapses—an undersized gutter here, a planter box pressed up against siding there, a sprinkler head misting brick every morning. You don’t need to become a drainage engineer; you just need to guide water away and choose plants and hardscape that support that goal.

Do the basics well. Be mindful of mature plant size and irrigation. Keep your foundation visible and your grade sloped. And when the situation is complex, get a pro’s eyes on it early. Your house—and your landscaping—will thank you for years.