How to Choose Windows and Doors That Align with Your Build Timeline
If you want your build to move like a well-rehearsed orchestra instead of a garage band, line up your windows and doors with the schedule early. These are long-lead, high-impact items that touch nearly every trade: framing, exterior envelope, electrical (contacts and sensors), flooring, tile, stucco, even paint colors. When the order is late, the site stalls—interiors can’t be climate-controlled, drywall waits, and everyone loses momentum. I’ve seen gorgeous projects sit in “framing limbo” for weeks because someone decided between black and bronze exterior cladding a little too late. Let’s walk through a practical, field-tested way to choose windows and doors that support your timeline instead of derailing it.
Why windows and doors drive your schedule
- They’re long-lead items. Even standard windows aren’t always on the shelf anymore. A small delay in selection can snowball into months on the back end.
- They gate critical path activities:
- You can’t fully weather-in without them.
- Electrical and insulation typically follow after openings are sealed.
- Exterior cladding, stucco lath, and air/water barriers depend on window integration.
- They involve many decisions (frame material, color, hardware, glass type, performance ratings). Every decision is an opportunity for delay if not sequenced.
- They trigger inspections. Egress, safety glazing, and energy compliance are often checked at framing or insulation, and any mismatch can force rework.
On most custom homes I manage, ordering windows and exterior doors accounts for the single largest early purchase, with a typical deposit of 50% due at order and 6–16 weeks of lead time. If we don’t lock those choices by the end of framing start, we’re probably pushing the completion date.
Know your product types and realistic lead times
These are typical ranges I’ve seen across North America the past few years. Local supply, seasonality, and demand swings can move these numbers. Always verify with your supplier in real time.
Windows: common types and lead times
- Builder-grade vinyl (standard sizes, white)
- Lead time: 2–4 weeks
- Cost: $250–$600 per unit for typical single/double-hungs or sliders
- Pros: Fast, affordable
- Cons: Color/size limitations, lower structural and thermal performance in some climates
- Premium vinyl or composite (fiberglass/FRP)
- Lead time: 6–10 weeks
- Cost: $600–$1,400 per unit
- Pros: Better rigidity, color options, stronger warranties
- Watch-outs: Dark colors can run longer lead times
- Wood-clad (aluminum-clad exterior, wood interior)
- Lead time: 10–16 weeks
- Cost: $1,000–$3,000 per unit (casements/awnings more)
- Pros: Aesthetics, performance options, broad configurations
- Cons: Finish/color decisions lock early; changes are costly
- Thermally broken aluminum (architectural/commercial style)
- Lead time: 10–18 weeks
- Cost: $1,200–$4,000 per unit, more for large spans
- Pros: Slim sightlines, durable; good for modern designs
- Cons: Needs proper thermal breaks in cold climates
- European tilt-turn/triple-pane (Passive House-grade)
- Lead time: 16–24+ weeks (import/to-order)
- Cost: $1,800–$6,000+ per unit
- Pros: Exceptional air tightness, performance
- Cons: Shipping and metric rough openings; plan early
- Impact-rated (hurricane zones)
- Lead time: 12–20 weeks, longer around storm season spikes
- Cost: 40–100% premium over non-impact
- Note: Need Florida Product Approval or Miami-Dade NOA where required
Specialty glass influences lead time:
- Tempered or laminated for safety: usually adds 1–3 weeks if not standard
- Tinted/reflective: +1–3 weeks
- Triple-pane: +2–6 weeks
- Custom patterns or acoustic interlayers: +4–8 weeks
Doors: common types and lead times
- Fiberglass or steel prehung entry doors (standard sizes)
- Lead time: 2–6 weeks
- Cost: $800–$3,000
- Pros: Fast, durable, paintable
- Wood entry doors (stain-grade, custom sizes)
- Lead time: 8–14 weeks
- Cost: $2,500–$8,000+
- Watch-outs: Finish curing and climate acclimation
- Multi-slide/pocket doors (aluminum/wood-clad systems)
- Lead time: 12–20 weeks
- Cost: $8,000–$40,000+ depending on span and panels
- Critical: Structural header sizing and track pan flashings need early coordination
- Folding/bi-fold systems
- Lead time: 10–18 weeks
- Cost: Similar to multi-slide
- Consider: Clear opening vs. panel stacking space
- Interior doors (solid-core)
- Lead time: 4–10 weeks (longer for custom veneers, stain)
- Cost: $200–$800 per leaf; hardware not included
- Fire-rated doors (garage to house, multifamily corridors)
- Lead time: 6–12 weeks for standard; longer for glass lites
- Verify: Listing (UL, Intertek) and label requirements with AHJ
Hardware often runs longer than doors if you’re not careful:
- Specialty finishes (flat black, satin bronze, unlacquered brass): 4–10 weeks
- Smart locks and multipoint sets: 4–8 weeks
- Commercial hardware packages: 6–12 weeks
- Coordinated keys and security contacts: add 1–2 weeks for setup
Map your decisions to the build timeline
Here’s a typical sequence for a custom single-family home from design through install. Adjust for remodels or multifamily.
- Schematic design (8–10 months before install) – Define style, frame material, performance needs (U-Factor, SHGC, DP rating). – Decide key configurations: picture vs. casement, sliders vs. swing doors, multi-slide intent. – Start a window and door schedule spreadsheet listing location, size, operation, safety/egress, glass, finish, hardware.
- Design development (6–8 months before install) – Meet suppliers for samples and mockups—touch the hardware, see colors in real light. – Lock target manufacturers for budgeting. Get preliminary quotes to validate costs against your allowances. – Identify code triggers: egress bedrooms, tempered near tubs and doors, WUI/ember resistance, hurricane/impact zones, fire ratings. – Structural consult for large openings: header sizes, deflection limits (L/720 for big glass is common), shear wall implications.
- Preconstruction and framing start (4–6 months before install) – Finalize sizes with the framer and architect. Coordinate rough openings (ROs) with manufacturer’s tolerances, shim space, and sill pan details. – Approve shop drawings/submittals: profiles, operation swing, hinges, hardware handing, finish codes, glass specs. Don’t skip this. – Place the order. Plan for a 50% deposit and balance before shipment or delivery. – Confirm delivery sequencing: Do we need the multi-slide last so it’s not damaged? Can we get basement windows early to weather-in?
- Framing (2–4 months before install) – Field-verify ROs after framing. For replacements, require a site measure by the vendor before fabrication. – Prep waterproofing details: sill pans (preformed or fabricated), WRB integration, flashing tapes, back dams. – Coordinate low-voltage and security: wire for door contacts, mag locks if needed, motorized shades, sensor prewires.
- Delivery and staging (2–6 weeks before install) – Confirm forklift or lull access. Plan laydown areas on level floors. – Check crates for damage on arrival; note it immediately on delivery paperwork. – Verify labels: performance data, tempered/laminated marks, egress labels. Cross-check quantities and sizes against the schedule.
- Installation (targeted week) – Sequence with weather. You want a dry stretch for large openings. – Follow ASTM E2112 or manufacturer’s instructions. Use pan flashings and slope/weep details. I like to water-test the first bay. – Call for inspections that apply (shear, WRB, energy/insulation pre-cover). Keep submittal sheets onsite.
- Post-install closeout – Register warranties; photograph labels before they’re painted over. – Hardware adjustment: most large sliders need seasonal fine-tuning. – Protect finishes; don’t let painters tape raw wood or anodized frames for weeks.
Step-by-step: choosing with schedule in mind
1) Define performance requirements first
Before you fall in love with a catalog photo, pin down:
- Energy: Target U-Factor and SHGC based on climate zone. For example, cold climates may aim for U ≤ 0.27; hot climates often target SHGC ≤ 0.25 on sun-exposed elevations.
- Structural: Design Pressure (DP) and water infiltration ratings. Coastal exposures require higher DP, often DP50+.
- Safety: Tempered glass within 24 inches of doors, within 60 inches of the bottom of a tub/shower, and near floor-level glazing. Local codes vary; always check.
- Egress: Bedrooms typically need a minimum net clear opening around 5.7 sq ft (or 5.0 sq ft at grade), with minimum clear dimensions (often 20 inches minimum width and 24 inches minimum height). Casements are great for this.
- Fire/wildfire: WUI zones may require dual-pane tempered or specific ember-resistant assemblies. Garage-to-house doors often need 20-minute fire rating and self-closing/positive latching.
Locking these early reduces model options and speeds selection.
2) Pick the supply path that fits your timeline
- Off-the-shelf: Fastest, limited choices. Good for schedules under pressure.
- Semi-custom (configured from a catalog): Balance of options and lead time. Most residential projects live here.
- Custom: Unique sizes, shapes, and finishes. Great results; big lead times. Use if your schedule can absorb 12–20+ weeks.
If you’re targeting an aggressive completion date, steer the design toward products available within 6–10 weeks and avoid rare finishes. I’ve shaved months off timelines by switching from custom anodized aluminum to stock-color fiberglass with performance glass.
3) Align design details with manufacturing realities
- Color/finish: Black exterior is popular but can extend lead times and increase thermal stress. Some manufacturers require tempered or heat-strengthened glass on dark-exposed frames to reduce risk of heat breakage.
- Grilles/muntins: Simulated divided lites and custom patterns add time and cost.
- Operation: A bank of casements often seals better than sliders but can add cost. Weigh operation vs. performance.
- Hardware finish continuity: Keep to one or two finishes across the house. Mixing brass, bronze, and black might look cool but will mess with procurement.
- Sill details: Zero or low thresholds need early structural and waterproofing coordination.
4) Freeze the schedule with a decision deadline
Add a decision milestone to your project plan: Window and Door Selection Freeze. Work backwards from install date and include:
- Lead time + 2 weeks float
- 1–2 weeks for shop drawing review
- 1 week for framing dimensions reconciliation
If install is week 28, freeze decisions around week 10–12. Everyone knows the date. If a finish choice isn’t made by then, default to an approved alternate that meets performance and schedule.
5) Demand shop drawings and submittals early
A fast way to avoid field rework:
- Require fully dimensioned shop drawings including frame depth, RO, glazing makeup, operation swing, hardware handing, sill types, and weep locations.
- Review with the architect, GC, and framer. Check tile and flooring transitions at door thresholds.
- Confirm egress clear openings on the drawings, not in the field after delivery.
6) Plan the installation sequence
- Start high and leeward if weather threatens.
- Install multi-slide systems last to reduce damage, but ensure the track pan is installed before cladding.
- Coordinate WRB wrap and flashing sequence: head flashing under WRB, side flashing, peel-and-stick, and shingle-lapped layers. No reverse laps.
- Schedule a mockup bay—prove your details and water-test with a garden hose before mass install.
Code, performance, and paperwork that slow jobs when overlooked
- Energy compliance: U-Factor, SHGC, and sometimes VT (visible transmittance) must match the energy model or prescriptive path. Keep NFRC stickers until inspection.
- Safety glazing: Inspectors look for tempered in doors, near doors, in wet areas, within 18 inches of the floor, and large lites in hazardous locations. Miss one and you’ll be reglazing a unit at the worst possible time.
- Egress: Casement hardware swing stops and decorative muntins can reduce clear opening below code. Check the net clear on submittals.
- Impact ratings: Coastal projects require product approvals. Your inspector may ask for Florida Product Approval or Miami-Dade NOA numbers.
- Fire ratings: Doors in fire separations need labels. Painters sometimes sand off labels—save photos of labels before finishing.
- Accessibility: If applicable, thresholds, clear widths (often 32 inches minimum clear), and maneuvering clearances need coordination with hardware types.
Finish and hardware choices that move your schedule
- Factory paint vs. field paint: Factory finishes are durable and often required for warranty—but they extend lead time. Field paint is faster but can void warranties. Decide early.
- Stain-grade wood interiors: The species and stain match process can add 1–3 weeks. Ask for a finish sample approval cycle early.
- Glass options with schedule impact:
- High-performance low-E coatings: Usually standard now, little impact.
- Triple-pane or argon/krypton gas: Adds time; coordinate with energy model savings.
- Acoustic glass for noisy sites: Fantastic comfort upgrade, but usually +4–8 weeks unless vendor stocks it.
- Multipoint locks and smart hardware: Confirm power requirements, backsets, and door prep in the shop drawings. Smart locks sometimes ship separate and arrive late—assign someone to track them.
Risk management and supply chain tips
- Seasonality is real. After major storms, impact glass lead times balloon. Before winter, production queues spike. Plan orders ahead of those bulges.
- Build a submittal log with due dates. Track approvals like you track inspections.
- Order a few spare hardware pieces (rollers, handles, hinges) for large sliders or common interior doors. What breaks on day one is what you can’t find at the big-box store.
- Consolidate manufacturers when practical. Fewer moving parts means fewer ways for the schedule to slip.
- Watch escalation clauses. Many vendors will only hold quotes for 15–30 days. If your design phase runs long, refresh the quote before you count on it.
- Insurance and delivery: Verify COI (Certificate of Insurance), delivery schedule windows, and onsite crew to receive. I always assign two people for intake—one to inspect, one to document.
Installation sequencing and weatherproofing that keeps you on track
- Sill pans: Use preformed or carefully layered metal/flashing to create a backdam and positive slope to exterior. A flat sill is a future leak.
- Shimming and fastening: Follow manufacturer’s points. Over-shimming casements can warp frames. Under-fastening multi-slides can rack tracks.
- Flashing tapes and WRB: Follow a shingle-lap principle. Head flashings should relieve water over side flashings, not behind them.
- Sealants: Use compatible sealants with WRB and frame finishes. Verify chemical compatibility, especially with flexible flashing tapes.
- Expansion and movement: Large aluminum systems need room to move. Don’t bury frames in stucco. Respect joint gaps and use backer rod and proper sealant depth.
- Field water testing: The first install bay is your insurance policy. A simple controlled spray test can reveal a missed corner or reverse lap while it’s still easy to fix.
Real-world scenarios
Case 1: Custom home with a 16-foot multi-slide
- Situation: Designer specified a 4-panel aluminum-clad system, 16 feet wide by 9 feet tall, dark bronze exterior, coastal site.
- Risks: Long lead time (quoted 16 weeks), high DP rating, special sill pan, structural deflection limits.
- Plan:
- Structural engineer set L/720 deflection for header.
- We froze design 20 weeks before target install, ordered at week 18.
- Submittals confirmed laminated glass for impact and dark finish glass requirements.
- We installed the pan during framing and wrapped WRB carefully around the head flashing.
- The door arrived during a dry spell; sliders went in last to avoid damage.
- Outcome: Schedule held. The big door didn’t become the bottleneck because we made it the planning priority.
Case 2: Production townhomes with vinyl windows
- Situation: 24-unit project using standard white vinyl casements/awning combos.
- Risks: Windows control the weather-in date; multiple buildings with staggered framing.
- Plan:
- We standardized sizes across units to buy in bulk, reducing lead time and cost.
- Set delivery per building phase: Building A then B then C, two weeks apart.
- Mockup bay on Building A approved by the inspector, then copy-paste details.
- Outcome: Material availability and repeatability kept the crews moving; no building sat idle waiting for windows.
Case 3: Whole-house remodel with replacement windows
- Situation: Tight neighborhood lot, stucco exterior to remain, interior finishes delicate.
- Risks: Site measure critical; surprises behind existing trim; minimal tolerance.
- Plan:
- Vendor performed a full site measure and templated arched units.
- We chose insert replacements with custom jamb extensions to match existing plaster.
- Delivery scheduled in two drops to minimize onsite storage.
- Outcome: Minimal disruption to finishes and no schedule slips from wrong sizes—because fabrication happened after site-verified measurements, not off plan assumptions.
Budget planning that reinforces the schedule
- Allowances vs. fixed selections: If your contract carries an allowance for windows/doors, set a deadline to convert to fixed selections. Allowances without deadlines invite late design changes.
- Deposits: Most suppliers require 50% to start. Factor this into cash flow. Delayed deposits are delayed lead times.
- Value engineering without schedule damage:
- Simplify divided lite patterns.
- Shift to standard frame colors.
- Use stock sizes if framing allows slight adjustments.
- Replace a multi-slide with a large fixed plus a smaller operable panel if budget or lead prohibits.
- Cost traps:
- Late changes after shop drawings can cost 10–30% in change fees and reset the lead time clock.
- Custom hardware finishes across the whole house add thousands and weeks. Limit those to feature areas.
Approximate cost ranges (per opening, residential):
- Standard vinyl windows: $250–$600 supply; $150–$300 install
- Fiberglass/composite: $600–$1,400 supply; $200–$400 install
- Wood-clad: $1,000–$3,000+ supply; $250–$500 install
- Multi-slide door systems: $8,000–$40,000+ supply; $1,500–$6,000 install
- Entry doors: $800–$8,000+ supply; $300–$800 install
Local labor, access, and finishes swing these numbers widely—use them to sanity-check bids.
Common mistakes that create delays (and easy fixes)
- Ordering before finalizing ROs
- Fix: Frame first or get a professional site measure; approve shop drawings that show RO and unit size before fabrication.
- Indecision on color/finish
- Fix: Request physical samples early. Set a decision deadline with a default fallback.
- Mixing too many hardware finishes
- Fix: Standardize. Use one finish throughout, maybe two for feature spaces.
- Forgetting egress clearances
- Fix: Verify net clear opening on shop drawings, not by eyeballing the rough framed hole.
- Overlooking door swings and hardware handing
- Fix: Mark swings on the floor plan and rough openings with painter’s tape for a “walkthrough.” It’s amazing how often this catches issues with furniture or stairs.
- Ignoring threshold and flooring transitions
- Fix: Detail the layers—mud bed, tile, slab, waterproofing. Confirm threshold heights and cut sheets.
- Choosing specialty glass too late
- Fix: Decide on acoustic, triple, or laminated at the start. Retrofits add weeks.
- Not sequencing exterior cladding with window install
- Fix: Plan WRB integration and cladding details on drawings. Install head flashings and trim with the window, not after.
Detailed selection checklist
Use this as a working list to keep your team aligned.
- Performance
- U-Factor, SHGC, DP rating
- Impact, fire, WUI requirements
- Acoustic goals (STC/OITC)
- Configuration
- Operation type per opening
- Egress windows identified, net clear verified
- Mullion alignments and sightlines
- Materials and finishes
- Frame material
- Exterior color and interior finish, factory vs. field
- Grilles/divided lite patterns
- Glass
- Low-E type and placement
- Tempered/laminated locations
- Triple-pane or tint if required
- Hardware
- Finish and style
- Multipoint vs. single-point locks
- Smart lock type and power needs
- Door swing and handing
- Details
- Sill pan design
- Insect screens, retractable options
- Shade pockets or integrated blinds
- Paperwork
- Shop drawings approved
- Submittal log with performance data
- Warranty terms and registration
- Logistics
- Delivery phasing and storage plan
- Site access and handling gear
- Damage inspection and documentation at delivery
Coordinating with trades
- Framer: Confirms ROs, header sizes, and trimmer placement. Large spans need specific deflection limits to prevent glass binding.
- Air/water barrier installer: Confirms flashing compatibility and sequencing.
- Electrician/security: Door contacts, strikes, smart locks, and shade power prewires. If you plan hidden motorized shades, plan head pockets early.
- Tile/flooring: Coordinate threshold heights, sloped pans, and waterproofing at patio transitions.
- Stucco/siding: Plan trim details, weeps, and expansion joints around frames.
- Painter: Protect hardware; avoid taping finishes for long durations.
- Inspector: Invite them to review a mockup detail if the jurisdiction allows—especially for unusual assemblies.
Replacement and remodel nuances
- Field verify everything. Existing houses are never perfectly square.
- Decide between “new construction” windows (with nailing fins) or “insert replacement” units (no fin, fit in existing frame). Inserts reduce disturbance but can slightly shrink glass area.
- Watch for lead paint and historic requirements. Some districts require wood windows and specific grille profiles, which lengthen timelines.
- Dust and protection: Schedule window swaps and door replacements in a tight sequence to minimize exposure.
Sustainability and schedule
- Triple glazing and thermally broken frames often run longer but can dramatically improve comfort and energy use. If you’re aiming for Passive House-level performance, plan for 16–24+ week lead times and lock decisions early.
- Wood vs. aluminum embodied carbon: Wood generally has lower embodied carbon, but maintenance adds lifetime considerations. From a schedule perspective, factory-finished wood might take longer; weigh that against your project goals.
- Recycled-content aluminum and local manufacturers: Ask vendors about local fabrication options. Shorter transit equals fewer delays.
Quality assurance that saves weeks later
- Mockup: Build and test one full assembly with the exact flashing and WRB details. I’ve never regretted a mockup; I’ve often regretted skipping it.
- Water testing: Hose testing right after install can catch missing end dams or a bad corner in the tape sequence.
- Documentation: Photograph label certifications, flashing layers before cladding, and threshold assemblies. If you ever chase a leak, these photos are gold.
Contingency planning
- Temporary doors: On sites at risk for theft or vandalism, use a temporary metal or solid-core door for several months and install the final entry right before finishes.
- Temporary weather-in: If windows lag, consider temporary sheathing and peel-and-stick membranes across openings, but understand you’re paying twice for labor and risking interior delays. It’s cheaper to order windows on time.
- Alternates: Pre-identify schedule-friendly alternates (e.g., switch from custom bronze hardware to stock black) and get pre-approval so you can pivot without redoing approvals in a panic.
What I track on every project: a simple window and door log
Create one shared spreadsheet with:
- Opening ID and room
- Manufacturer and series
- Operation and size (unit and RO)
- Performance ratings (U, SHGC, DP)
- Glass makeup and safety notes
- Finish and hardware finish
- Egress status
- Submittal date, approval date
- Order date, deposit date
- Promised ship date, delivery date
- Install date and inspection passed
- Punch items and warranty registration
This log becomes your single source of truth. When someone asks “Where’s the mudroom door?” you’ll have an answer in seconds.
A sample timeline you can adapt
Assuming a target install around week 28:
- Week 0–4: Finalize performance requirements; shortlist manufacturers.
- Week 5–8: Review samples; refine window/door schedule; get budgetary quotes.
- Week 9–10: Shop drawings requested.
- Week 11–12: Approve submittals; freeze selections; place order with deposit.
- Week 13–26: Fabrication period; framing progresses; field-verify rough openings.
- Week 20: Confirm delivery dates; book equipment and install crew; prep pans and WRB.
- Week 26–28: Delivery and staged install; mockup test; inspector walk.
- Week 29–30: Adjustments, punch list, warranty documentation.
Notice the float: two weeks of buffer before install, and a couple of weeks after for fine-tuning and inspections. Buffers are your schedule’s shock absorbers.
Frequently asked questions I get from clients
- Can we change the color after ordering?
- Usually no without fees and delays. Treat color as a final decision at order.
- Can we install the frames now and glaze later to speed up?
- Not typical in residential. It risks water intrusion and Warranty Issues.
- What if the delivery comes damaged?
- Document on the spot. If you sign clean, claims are harder. Keep a few days of buffer to reorder parts if needed.
- Should we order all interior doors with exteriors?
- If lead times are similar and storage is safe, yes. Otherwise, stagger to reduce damage risk.
Put it all together: your action plan
- Decide performance requirements first; let them guide product choices.
- Build and maintain a window/door schedule and submittal log.
- Freeze selections with a real deadline, enforced by the contract and schedule.
- Order early enough to have 2 weeks of buffer before install.
- Coordinate ROs, structure, and waterproofing at the drawing stage.
- Require shop drawings and approve with all stakeholders.
- Sequence delivery and installation with weather and trade activity in mind.
- Mockup, test, and document to protect your schedule and warranty.
Windows and doors are not just design features—they’re schedule drivers. Treat them like the milestones they are, and your project will move with fewer surprises, fewer frantic phone calls, and a lot less blue tape at the end. Your future self on the jobsite will thank you.