How to Comply with Accessibility Requirements in New Homes

If you’re building a new home, weaving accessibility into the design isn’t just a kindness to future you or a visiting relative—it’s smart construction. Done right, it’s nearly invisible, enhances comfort for everyone, and often adds value. I’ve walked more job sites than I can count where a few inches here or a minor slope there made the difference between a house that “technically works” and one that truly supports independence. This guide breaks down the what, why, and how so you can build a home that feels great to live in and meets the requirements that might apply to your project.

What “accessible” really means in a new home

Start with the rules—and how they apply

Accessibility requirements depend on the type of project and where you live. Here’s the quick lay of the land in the U.S.:

• Single-family homes: The federal Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) generally does not apply to private single-family residences. However, state or local codes may require certain features (often called “visitability” or “livable” standards), such as a zero-step entry and wider doors. Many owners choose to follow recognized standards voluntarily to future-proof their home.
• Multifamily housing (apartments, condos, certain townhouses): The federal Fair Housing Act (FHA) requires accessibility features in covered multifamily dwellings built after March 13, 1991. There are seven baseline requirements that must be met for ground-floor units and units served by an elevator. Local building codes (often based on IBC and ICC A117.1) also apply.
• Sales/leasing offices and common areas: ADA may apply to leasing offices, clubhouses, gyms, and other public accommodations within residential communities.

Key references in the U.S.:

• Fair Housing Act Design Manual (HUD)
• ICC A117.1 Accessible and Usable Buildings and Facilities
• International Building Code (IBC)
• 2010 ADA Standards for Accessible Design (often used as a best-practice reference in homes even when not mandated)

If you’re outside the U.S.:

• UK: Approved Document M (Access to and Use of Buildings), Category 2/3 standards for homes.
• Australia: National Construction Code (NCC) and the Livable Housing Design Standard (many states adopting, with “Silver”/“Gold” level features).
• Canada: Varies by province; review CSA B651 and provincial codes.

Practical approach: even when you’re not legally bound, adopting core accessibility features (zero-step entry, wider doors, accessible bathroom/kitchen clearances, reachable controls) usually costs less during construction than retrofitting later.

Accessibility vs. universal design vs. aging-in-place

• Accessibility: Meeting specific requirements for wheelchair and mobility device use.
• Universal design: Makes spaces comfortable and intuitive for people of all ages and abilities (think lever handles, good lighting, no-trip thresholds).
• Aging-in-place: Designing now so the home still works at 70+ without a major remodel.

Most good new homes blend all three.

Build it into the process early

The cheapest time to “buy” accessibility is on paper. Here’s a simple process I use with clients.

1. Program and priorities – Who will live here and for how long? Any current or anticipated mobility, vision, or hearing needs? – Must-have list: zero-step entry, main-floor bedroom suite, curbless shower, 36-inch doors, reinforced bathroom walls, future elevator shaft. – Set a target level: baseline “visitability” or full wheelchair usability.

1. Site strategy – Pick the entry point with the easiest grade for a zero-step entry (often through the garage or a side door). – Plan grades early. It’s easier to move dirt than redesign thresholds later.

1. Schematic layout – Main-floor bedroom with accessible bathroom and laundry. – Logical circulation with fewer turns, minimum 42-inch hallways, and 60-inch turning spaces at key spots. – Stack closets for a future elevator if the home has multiple floors.

1. Technical detailing – Doors, clear floor spaces, bathroom blocking, shower pan design, curb details, linear drains. – Electrical control heights, reach ranges, and outlet placement.

1. Pricing and procurement – Capture all accessibility features in the specs so they don’t get “value-engineered” out. – Order long-lead items early: 3-0 doors, pocket door kits with soft-close, linear drains, curbless shower pans, lever hardware.

1. Quality control – Use an accessibility checklist at framing and again at finishes. – Confirm slopes, clearances, heights, and door swings on site.

Pro tip: Walk the framed house with a 30-inch x 48-inch piece of cardboard and a 60-inch string. You’ll catch clearance issues long before drywall.

Site, approach, and entry: getting the fundamentals right

A truly accessible home starts at the curb—or at least from the driveway. If the route in is a hassle, the rest hardly matters.

Accessible route from parking to entry

• Surface: Stable, firm, slip-resistant. Concrete, asphalt, compacted pavers are good. Loose gravel is tough for mobility devices.
• Width: 36 inches minimum clear; 48 inches feels much better for two people side by side.
• Slope:
• Walkway: Up to 1:20 (5%) is comfortable and usually doesn’t trigger ramp requirements.
• If steeper than 1:20, treat like a ramp: 1:12 maximum slope, 36-inch minimum clear width, 60-inch landings at top and bottom, and every 30 feet of run. Handrails on both sides when the rise exceeds 6 inches.
• Cross-slope: Max 1:48 (2%) to avoid side-tipping of wheelchairs.
• Lighting: Even, non-glare lighting along the path; avoid casting harsh shadows at the entry.

Zero-step entry options

• Grade the site so one entry (often the garage or side door) is flush, with no step.
• Lower the entry slab roughly 1.5 inches and use a sloped sill or recessed pan to meet threshold limits.
• Use a trench drain outside a flush door to keep weather out without adding a dam or step.
• Where a slope is unavoidable, integrate a ramp into landscape features (terraced planters, wide stairs with a parallel ramp).

Entry threshold guidelines:

• Maximum 1/2-inch threshold; if over 1/4 inch, bevel the edge (1:2 bevel).
• Flush sills are ideal. There are thermally broken, water-rated flush sill systems designed for this.

Garage-to-mudroom transitions:

• Avoid the classic 7-inch step from garage to house. Instead, recess the slab or provide a ramped transition with a 1:12 slope over 7 feet or less if site allows.
• Provide a 5-foot by 5-foot landing in the garage near the door for turning.

Drainage and weather

• Slope the approach away from the door to prevent water intrusion.
• Choose a door sweep and sill system rated for the exposure in your climate zone.
• Covered entries are your friend—for weather and for maneuvering space.

Cost range:

• Earthwork/grading for a zero-step entry on a typical suburban lot: $800–$3,500 depending on cut/fill.
• Upgraded door sill and trench drain: $300–$1,200.
• Landscape-integrated ramp: $1,500–$8,000 depending on materials and length.

Common mistakes:

• A “ramp” that exceeds 1:12 slope because the designer tried to fix a 24-inch grade change in 16 feet.
• A gorgeous front door with a 2-inch stone saddle. Looks great, kills accessibility.
• Paver walkways with uneven joints and dips.

Doors, hallways, and circulation: where inches matter

Doors

• Clear width: 32 inches minimum clear when the door is open 90 degrees. A 36-inch nominal door typically provides 32 inches clear. I specify 36-inch doors for most rooms.
• Maneuvering clearances: Keep 18 inches clear on the latch side of the pull side of the door and 12 inches on the push side. This matters at entries, bathrooms, bedrooms, and any door a person may need to open while seated.
• Swing direction: Consider outswing doors for small bathrooms to keep interior clearances free—but weigh egress and privacy. Pocket or barn doors with soft-close hardware can work well; ensure 34–36-inch pocket doors and high-quality tracks to avoid heavy force.
• Thresholds: Keep transitions at or below 1/2 inch with beveled edges. Use reducers for different flooring heights.

Hardware:

• Lever handles, not knobs. Easy to operate with limited grip.
• Latching force low enough to operate with one hand without tight grasping; aim for under 5 pounds.

Hallways and circulation

• Hallway width: 42 inches feels right and allows room for passing. 36 inches is a hard minimum; avoid it if you can.
• Turning spaces: Provide 60-inch diameter turning circles at room entries, kitchen work zones, and within bathrooms, or design T-turns (36-inch legs) where circles don’t fit.
• Sightlines and wayfinding: Keep circulation obvious. Reduce sharp blind turns.

Flooring transitions:

• Choose hard, low-pile, or tightly woven carpet (pile height ≤ 1/2 inch) with firm pad.
• Align flooring thicknesses to avoid reducer strips wherever possible.

The bathroom: your make-or-break space

A well-planned bathroom lets someone bathe, dress, and go about their routine with dignity. Here’s how to get it right.

Layout basics

• Clear floor space: Aim for a 60-inch turning circle or an equivalent T-turn.
• Door: 36-inch door (32-inch clear) with lever hardware. Consider outswing or pocket door.
• Blocking: Install continuous 3/4-inch plywood or solid blocking at 33–36 inches above finished floor for grab bars around the toilet and in the shower. Do it at framing whether or not you plan to install bars now.

Toilets

• Location: Centerline 16–18 inches from the adjacent side wall for a standard reach. If planning for future side-transfer from a wheelchair, a 16-inch centerline with a minimum 60-inch width for adjacent clearance works well.
• Height: 17–19 inches to top of seat (often sold as “comfort height” or “ADA height”).
• Clearance: 60 inches in front of the toilet recommended for turning; at minimum, provide 56 inches clear depth if the toilet is floor-mounted and space is tight.

Sinks and vanities

• Height: 34 inches max to top of counter if it’s intended for wheelchair access.
• Knee and toe clearance: 27 inches min clear knee height under the sink for at least 8 inches deep, 30 inches wide, with 17–25 inches deep overall knee/toe clearance depending on standard used.
• P-trap: Use an offset or insulated trap to protect knees.
• Faucets: Single-lever or touch-control.

Pro move: Use a floating vanity or a removable base cabinet under the sink with finished flooring beneath, so you can “unlock” knee space later without a remodel.

Showers

• Curbless showers work for everyone. They look modern and they’re easy to step into.
• Sizes:
• 60-inch x 30-inch minimum roll-in shower or
• 36-inch x 36-inch transfer shower with a folding seat and grab bars.
• If you have the room, 60 inches x 36 inches is fantastic and easier to waterproof.
• Slope: 1/4 inch per foot toward the drain. Keep the bathroom floor otherwise flat or with minimal slope to the shower.
• Drains: Linear drains at the entry edge or rear wall make curbless easier and reduce complicated slopes. Choose a high-flow drain if rain-style heads are planned.
• Controls: Install the shower valve within easy reach from the entrance—between 38–48 inches above the floor and not centered behind the head spray. Put the handheld shower on a vertical slide bar within reach of the seat location (48 inches max to upper control if following strict reach range).
• Seating: A fold-down seat or a solid bench at 17–19 inches height. If not installing now, make sure blocking is in place for a future seat.

Waterproofing details that work:

• Use a bonded waterproofing membrane (sheet or liquid) over a sloped mud bed or a pre-sloped foam tray designed for curbless installs.
• Recess or drop the shower area subfloor during framing by 1–1.5 inches to maintain a flush transition.
• Use large-format floor tiles with a DCOF of 0.42 or greater when wet (per ANSI A326.3) and mosaics on slopes for traction.

Lighting and outlets:

• Bright, even lighting with no glare; add a dedicated shower light.
• Install a GFCI-protected outlet near, but not over, the vanity. Outlet height 18–24 inches above finished floor is easier to reach from a seated position.

Budget ranges:

• Curbless shower package (pan, membrane, linear drain): $600–$2,000 in materials, plus framing/labor.
• Grab bars: $45–$300 each, plus blocking and install.
• Comfort-height toilet: $200–$700.

Common mistakes:

• Shower curbs added “last minute” because the tile installer couldn’t manage slope. Fix this at framing, not after you set cement board.
• Shower controls placed under the shower head. Cold surprise every time.
• No blocking in walls—cheap to add during framing, costly after.

Kitchen: plan for flow and flexible use

The best accessible kitchens don’t scream “accessible.” They just feel easier to cook in.

Space and clearances

• Pathways: 42 inches between counters, 48 inches for two cooks or wheelchair turning.
• Work triangle: Keep it compact. If you’re opening to a great room, use an island with a 48-inch aisle on one side and 42 inches on the other.
• Turning: Aim for a 60-inch turning circle or plan a T-turn with 3-foot legs.

Appliances

• Cooktop: Separate from the oven if possible. Front or side controls reduce reach. Induction cooktops help avoid burns.
• Wall oven: Side-hinged ovens mounted with the middle rack around 30–34 inches high are easiest to access.
• Microwave: Drawer-style at 24–36 inches height works well. Over-range microwaves are tough to reach and vent poorly.
• Refrigerator: French door models with full-width clearances and pull-out shelves are friendly. Verify door swings don’t block circulation.
• Dishwasher: Consider raising it 6–10 inches off the floor with a platform. Drawer dishwashers near the sink are also a great option.
• Hood controls: Mount between 42–48 inches above finished floor or on the face of cabinetry.

Counters and storage

• Mixed-height counters: A section at 34 inches high provides access while most counters stay at 36 inches.
• Pull-out work surfaces: Install a retractable work board near the cook zone.
• Knee space: Provide 30 inches wide by 27 inches high knee clearance under a section of counter, ideally near the sink or cooktop, with removable cabinet fronts.
• Sinks: Shallow sink (6–8 inches), offset drain to maximize knee space.
• Storage: Full-extension drawers, pull-out pantry units, D-shaped pulls instead of knobs, and corner solutions (LeMans/Lazy Susan).
• Electrical: Duplex outlets every 4 feet along counters; consider plug strips under cabinet lips to keep the backsplash clean and outlets accessible at 15–20 inches height.

Lighting:

• Layer with bright ambient (recessed or surface fixtures), task lighting under cabinets, and good color rendering (CRI 90+). Target 30–50 foot-candles at counters.

Costs to plan:

• Drawer hardware and pull-outs: $800–$2,500 incremental.
• Induction cooktop: $900–$2,500.
• Wall oven with side swing: $2,000–$4,000.

Common mistakes:

• Giant 48-inch deep islands with a single 36-inch aisle that choke circulation.
• Overly thick countertop edges that reduce the clear opening beneath for knee space.
• Outlets too high or too low for seated reach.

Bedrooms and living spaces

Main-floor bedroom suite

• Door: 36 inches.
• Clearances: 36 inches on the primary sides of the bed; 48 inches if frequent wheelchair use is expected.
• Closets: 30 inches clear in front of hanging rods, with double-hang rods at 34 and 70 inches high; use adjustable systems.
• Windows: Lower sill heights (24 inches) help seated views; lever-style handles.
• Flooring: Low-pile carpet or hard flooring with good underlayment for comfort and acoustics.

Living/dining rooms

• Circulation: 48-inch pathways along main routes when furnished.
• Outlets: Avoid placing outlets behind heavy furniture; add floor outlets where needed so cords aren’t tripping hazards.
• Fireplace: Raised hearths create barriers; consider flush hearths with remote ignition and protective screen.

Acoustics and sensory considerations

• Sound: Add acoustic insulation in bedroom and bathroom walls. Solid-core doors offer better privacy and sound control.
• Lighting and contrast: Use distinct color contrasts between walls, floors, and trim to help low-vision users with depth perception. Aim for at least 30 LRV points of contrast between adjacent surfaces.

Stairs, ramps, elevators, and lifts

Stairs that are safer for everyone

• Treads: 11-inch minimum depth; consistent risers at 7–7.5 inches.
• Handrails: 34–38 inches high, continuous and easy to grip, returns to wall at ends.
• Lighting: Put a light at top and bottom; switches at both levels; consider step lights.
• Visual contrast: Mark the nosing with a contrasting strip if stairs blend visually with flooring.

Ramps

• When needed, integrate them into the design. Exterior ramp slopes at 1:12 maximum; landings every 30 feet or at 30-inch rises.
• Interior ramps are rare in homes but can bridge small level changes; keep slopes gentle (1:20 preferred).

Elevators and lifts

• Residential elevators: Plan a 5-foot by 5-foot clear car for comfortable use, with a 36-inch door. Stack closets with removable shelves for a future shaft, and plan for power and structural support.
• Costs: Residential elevator $20,000–$35,000 installed; shaft construction extra. Through-floor lifts $12,000–$25,000. Platform lifts (short-rise) $6,000–$15,000.

Future-proofing trick:

• Align closets above each other with 52-inch by 52-inch interior dimensions and no plumbing lines; run a dedicated 220V circuit and a pathway for controls. Label it on the plans: “Future elevator shaft.”

Electrical, controls, and safety systems

Reach ranges and controls

• Light switches and thermostats: 42–48 inches above the floor. I like 44 inches as a project standard.
• Outlets: 18 inches above the floor to top of receptacle; higher behind furniture. Provide floor outlets in large rooms.
• Panels: If the main electrical panel is inside, locate it in an accessible area with clear space (30 inches wide by 36 inches deep) and the highest breaker handle no higher than 54 inches.
• Doorbells/intercoms: Visual and audible indicators; consider video doorbells with smart displays at reachable height.

Smart home features that help

• Voice-controlled lighting and HVAC.
• Motorized shades controlled by wall switches and apps.
• Smart locks with keypad and app access.
• Water leak sensors near laundry, water heater, and sinks.
• Fall-detection devices and monitored alarm systems as requested.

Fire and life safety

• Smoke and CO alarms with interconnected signals; in bedrooms, add strobes or bed shakers if occupants are hard of hearing.
• Egress windows with easy-lift hardware in all bedrooms; avoid heavy casement sashes without crank handles.
• Night lighting: Low-level pathway lighting from bedroom to bath on a motion sensor is a game-changer.

Finishes and details that make daily life easier

• Slip resistance: Choose floor tile with a wet DCOF ≥ 0.42 in baths, entries, and kitchens. Matte finishes reduce glare.
• Thresholds: Keep transitions minimal and beveled.
• Rugs: If you use rugs, ensure non-slip backing and low thickness; tape edges if needed to avoid curling.
• Door closers: Avoid strong spring tension; many interior doors don’t need closers, and where they’re specified, pick adjustable low-force options.
• Visual contrast: Use contrasting colors between counters and floors, stair treads and risers, and door hardware against door color.
• Signage and labels: Subtle but clear—think labeled breakers, clearly marked thermostats with large text and high contrast.

The Fair Housing Act’s seven requirements (for multifamily units)

If you’re building covered multifamily dwellings, the FHA outlines seven minimum requirements for ground-floor units (and all units in buildings with elevators):

1. An accessible building entrance on an accessible route.
2. Accessible and usable public and common use areas.
3. Usable doors: 32 inches clear minimum.
4. An accessible route into and through the dwelling unit.
5. Light switches, electrical outlets, thermostats, and other controls in accessible locations (typically 15–48 inches above floor).
6. Reinforced walls in bathrooms for later installation of grab bars.
7. Usable kitchens and bathrooms: clear floor space for approach and maneuvering.

Even if you’re building a single-family home, these seven points are a helpful checklist.

Common mistakes I see—and how to avoid them

• Narrow powder room: A 30-inch vanity and a 32-inch door squeezed into a 5-foot room leaves no turning space. Fix by using a wall-hung sink and a 36-inch door or enlarging to at least 6 feet.
• Beautiful but impassable front stoop: Design the zero-step entry as part of the architecture, not an afterthought ramp bolted on at the end.
• Threshold creep: Flooring contractor adds thicker underlayment; tile ends up 3/4 inch above adjacent wood. Hold pre-install meetings and specify transition pieces in the schedule.
• Door swing conflicts: Bath door swings into the toilet or blocks a required clear floor space. Solve in the drawings; use outswing or pocket doors where appropriate.
• Showers without adequate slope or drain capacity: Plan the curbless system up front and coordinate membrane, drains, and elevations.
• Controls too high: Electrician defaults to 48–52 inches for switches because “that’s how we’ve always done it.” Set your project standards and mark heights on studs.
• No blocking where needed: Photograph and mark wall blocking before drywall. Use continuous sheets of 3/4-inch plywood in bathrooms behind tile backer.

How much does all this add to the budget?

If you plan for accessibility from the start, the cost premium can be surprisingly modest. Here are typical incremental costs I see on new construction in the U.S. (beyond what you’d spend anyway on a quality build):

• Wider doors (upgrade to 36-inch): $10–$60 per door more; 12–18 doors adds $120–$1,080.
• Hallways at 42 inches instead of 36 inches: negligible framing cost if planned early; may add a few square feet.
• Zero-step entry with flush sill: $500–$2,500 depending on site grading and door system.
• Blocking in bathrooms: $150–$400 in material/labor for an entire house during framing.
• Curbless shower: $500–$2,000 materials premium; $500–$1,500 labor premium depending on framing changes.
• Mixed-height counters and pull-out accessories: $1,000–$4,000.
• Lever hardware and easy-grip pulls: $20–$60 per door more; $300–$900 total.
• Lighting upgrades (task + ambient layers): $500–$2,000 depending on fixture quality.
• Smart controls: $300–$1,500 depending on scope.
• Future elevator readiness (stacked closets, power rough-in): $300–$1,500 now vs. tens of thousands later.

On a $500,000 new build, integrating a robust set of accessibility features might add 1–3% if planned from day one. Retrofits later can cost 5–15% or more for the same functionality.

Timelines and scheduling tips

• Design phase: Add 1–2 weeks to finalize accessibility details, especially for bathrooms and entries.
• Permitting: Some jurisdictions review accessibility components closely for multifamily; build in 1–3 extra weeks.
• Procurement: Order 3-0 doors, pocket door kits, specialty drains, and curbless shower systems early (lead times of 2–8 weeks).
• Field sequencing: Coordinate the curbless shower framing recess before rough plumbing. Don’t let flooring go in until thresholds and transitions are confirmed on site.
• Inspections: Walk framing with the electrician, plumber, and tile installer to verify heights, blocking, and slopes. Build in time for corrections before drywall.

Case studies and real-world scenarios

1) Sloped lot single-family with stealth accessibility

• Challenge: 24-inch grade difference from driveway to front door; owner wanted a “normal-looking” house with a front porch and steps.
• Solution: Designed a zero-step entry through the garage and a gently sloped side path with landscaping. The front still had a traditional stoop with three steps for curb appeal.
• Inside: 42-inch hallways, 36-inch doors, main-floor suite with curbless 60×36 shower, blocking everywhere. Kitchen with a 34-inch work zone and a pull-out board.
• Budget impact: ~1.8% premium. Site work added $1,900; curbless shower system $1,400; wider doors $540; blocking $250; mixed-height counters $1,700.
• Result: No visual “tells,” but the owner’s mother could visit comfortably—and the house appraised at the top of the comp range.

2) Compact urban infill townhouse with future-proofing

• Challenge: Narrow 20-foot-wide footprint across three floors.
• Solution: Stacked closets for future elevator (52×52 inches clear), main-floor powder room designed to convert to a 3/4 bath with pre-installed drain and vent for a future roll-in shower. Doors all 36 inches. Electrical at 44 inches for switches, 18 inches for outlets.
• Budget impact: $1,200 for future elevator prep, $600 for bathroom rough-ins and blocking, $480 for door upgrades.
• Result: Young owners now; when babies became toddlers and then grandparents visited, the foresight paid off. Elevator added five years later with minimal disruption.

3) FHA-covered multifamily building

• Context: Three-story, elevator-served 24-unit apartment building.
• Requirements: All units needed to meet FHA’s seven requirements.
• Execution: Used ICC A117.1 clearances for kitchens/baths, ensured 32-inch clear doors, 48-inch control heights max, reinforced bath walls, and accessible common areas (mailroom, club room, pool gate). Mock-up unit built first to confirm dimensions and turning.
• Lessons learned: The team nearly missed latch-side clearances at entry doors due to a decorative wall niche. Caught at mock-up, fixed across all units by shifting a wall 4 inches before framing started on upper floors. That saved a bundle.

Step-by-step checklist you can use

Design and preconstruction:

• Decide your target: visitable, wheelchair-friendly, or full universal design.
• Pick the zero-step entry location and confirm grading can make it happen.
• Set project standards: 36-inch doors, 42-inch halls, 44-inch switches, 18-inch outlets.
• Locate main-floor suite (bedroom, bath, laundry).
• Detail curbless shower: framing recess, drain type, slope, waterproofing.
• Add bathroom blocking to drawings, with elevations.
• Choose door hardware (lever), cabinet pulls (D-shaped), and slip-resistant flooring.
• Plan future elevator (stacked closets, power).
• Add smart controls and layered lighting to specs.
• Review local code requirements; if multifamily, confirm FHA/IBC/ICC A117.1 scoping.

Framing walk:

• Verify hallway widths and doors framed to 38 inches for 3-0 doors.
• Confirm shower recess depth and drain location.
• Check blocking is installed in all bathrooms.
• Inspect for maneuvering clearances at all doors, especially latch-side spaces.
• Photograph all blocking and rough-ins; label for future.

MEP rough-ins:

• Set light switches at 44 inches, thermostats at 44 inches, outlets at 18 inches.
• Confirm sink plumbing allows for knee space where planned; offset drain lines as needed.
• Ensure fan/light controls and hood controls are reachable.
• Add motion-sensor night lights in hall/bath.

Finishes:

• Confirm slopes, thresholds, and transitions before flooring install.
• Install grab bars and shower seats where specified.
• Test door operation and force; adjust closers if any.
• Set appliances with clear side approaches and check door swings.

Turnover:

• Provide a guide to controls (thermostats, smart systems).
• Include photos of blocking and rough-in locations in the homeowner packet.
• Walk the home with a wheelchair or mobility scooter if possible to catch any last-minute issues.

Special scenarios

When the lot is steep

• Consider a side-yard switchback path with landings instead of a long straight ramp. A 1:20 walkway avoids handrails and integrates better into landscaping.
• Raise the garage slab relative to the house to reduce the step. Use a trench drain to handle water where planes meet.
• If all else fails, plan a short-rise platform lift at a secondary entry and integrate it architecturally.

When the house is small

• Use pocket doors to free up swing clearance.
• Combine laundry with a bathroom and plan knee space under a folding counter.
• Use a 36×36 transfer shower instead of a 60-inch roll-in if turning space is limited elsewhere.

Multi-generational living

• Two primary suites—one up, one down—give flexibility over decades.
• Add sound separation, private outdoor access for the main-floor suite, and a small coffee bar with sink and undercounter fridge.

Working with your team

• Architect/designer: Bring accessibility goals to the first meeting. Ask for dimensioned clearances on the drawings—not just room sizes.
• Builder/GC: Review the checklist together. Ask about their experience with curbless showers and zero-step entries.
• Accessibility consultant or occupational therapist: For projects with specific mobility needs, an OT’s insights on reach, transfer, and routines can be invaluable.
• Tile installer and plumber: They’re the make-or-break trades for showers. Align on the curbless system early and confirm who owns the waterproofing details.
• Electrician: Give them a height diagram; walk the house and mark each control location with blue tape and a marker on studs.

Inspections, documentation, and quality control

• Use a tape and digital level to verify slopes on-site. A slope cube or digital inclinometer is handy on ramps and showers.
• Print out a mini plan of each bathroom and mark blocking locations after installation. Photograph with a tape measure visible in the shot.
• Check light levels with a simple lux meter app and adjust fixtures or bulbs to hit targets in kitchens and baths.
• Do a “wheel test”: if a wheelchair isn’t available, load a rolling tool chest or use a furniture dolly with a seated person to simulate turning and door approach.

Quick answers to common questions

• Do I need an elevator? Not unless you or a household member needs one now or your local code requires it. But planning the shaft is cheap insurance.
• Can I have thresholds with hardwood and tile transitions? Yes, but keep them beveled and under 1/2 inch. Feather the subfloor to reduce height differences.
• Are barn doors accessible? They can be if sized right and with easy-to-grip pulls, but they don’t provide great sound privacy. Ensure floor guides are flush or recessed.
• Is carpet a no-go? Not at all. Choose low-pile, firm-pad carpet and secure transitions.
• How do I keep a curbless shower from leaking? Proper slope, continuous waterproofing, and a quality drain. A linear drain at the entry can act like an invisible dam.

Regional notes and compliance cues

• U.S. single-family homes: Follow local codes; consider adopting ICC A117.1 dimensions voluntarily for best results. ADA doesn’t govern private single-family home interiors.
• U.S. multifamily: FHA seven requirements apply; local building officials often also enforce IBC/ICC A117.1 provisions. Use the HUD Fair Housing Act Design Manual as your bible during layout.
• UK: Aim for Part M Category 2 (Accessible and Adaptable Dwellings) features: step-free access, wider doors/halls, accessible WC on entrance level, and future shower space.
• Australia: Many jurisdictions now require elements of the Livable Housing Design Standard (e.g., step-free entry, accessible path, circulation, accessible toilet, and reinforcement for future grab rails).

Always confirm with your local building department; a 20-minute call can save you from a costly rework.

A few personal lessons learned

• Start with the shower. Every time I’ve seen accessibility blow up a schedule, it traced back to a late decision on curbless details. Decide early; coordinate everyone; order the drain.
• Don’t skimp on latch-side clearance. It’s the single most underrated clearance on a plan.
• Beautiful and accessible are not opposites. Some of the most design-forward homes I’ve worked on are also the easiest to live in—flush transitions, clean lines, linear drains, and lever hardware read as modern, not medical.
• Visitability is contagious. Once clients experience a zero-step entry and good lighting, they ask for the same in their next projects.

Bringing it all together

Accessibility in new homes isn’t a list of compromises; it’s a set of design decisions that make daily life smoother. Start with the path in, guarantee at least one main-floor suite, get the bathroom and kitchen clearances right, lower the barriers (literally) at doors and thresholds, and set your switches and outlets where everyone can use them. Most of it comes down to inches, slopes, and smart planning—and the payoff is a home that serves you for decades.

Resources worth bookmarking

• HUD Fair Housing Act Design Manual (free PDF)
• ICC A117.1 Accessible and Usable Buildings and Facilities
• International Building Code (current edition adopted by your jurisdiction)
• 2010 ADA Standards for Accessible Design (for reference in common areas and good practice)
• AARP HomeFit Guide
• NAHB CAPS (Certified Aging-in-Place Specialist) program
• ANSI A326.3 (DCOF) for tile slip resistance

If you build accessibility into your plans from day one and hold your team to the details, you don’t just “comply”—you create a home that feels effortless to live in. That’s the real goal.