How to Coordinate Utility Hookups During the Final Build Phase

The last 10% of a build is where schedules blow up or everything clicks. Utility hookups sit right at the center of that. When power, gas, water, sewer, and internet land in the right sequence, your final inspections go smoothly, appliances start up cleanly, and you hit your target move-in. When they don’t, you’re staring at a finished house with no power for the HVAC startup or a gas company pushing meter sets three weeks out. I’ve seen both ends of that spectrum on dozens of projects, and the difference is always coordination.

What “Final Build Phase” Really Means for Utilities

By “final build phase,” we’re talking about the window from 4–10 weeks before your planned Certificate Of Occupancy (CO) through move-in. The framing is complete, trades are trimmed out, and the site is nearing final grade. You’re transitioning from temporary power to permanent, pressure-testing gas lines, flushing water, and setting meters. It’s the moment where utility providers stop being abstract entities on the plans and start being people who must show up, on a date, to do a very specific thing.

Utilities typically involved:

• Electric (temporary-to-permanent power, meter set, energization)
• Gas (natural gas meter or propane tank set and connection)
• Water (service tap, meter set, backflow, irrigation meter if needed)
• Sewer (tap and lateral, or septic system)
• Telecom (internet/fiber/cable)
• Optional: Fire service line/sprinkler meter, reclaimed water for irrigation, stormwater tie-ins

Stakeholders you’ll coordinate:

• Your GC or you as owner-builder
• Electrician, plumber, HVAC contractor, low-voltage/AV integrator
• Excavation/site contractor
• AHJ inspectors (building, electrical, plumbing, fire)
• Utility providers (power company, gas utility, water/sewer department, telecom company)
• Sometimes the developer or HOA for easements and site standards

The key is getting everyone to talk in the same language: dates, trench routes, inspections, and who owns what from the street to the meter and from the meter to the house.

The Critical Path: A High-Level Sequence That Works

Here’s the flow I use on custom homes and small developments. Adjust timing to your local lead times.

1. 8–12 weeks out:
   • Confirm service sizes and meter locations with electrician and plumber: 200A vs 400A service, gas meter size/pressure, water meter size (and whether sprinklers or irrigation demand a larger meter).
   • Apply for any outstanding utility service orders (gas/water/sewer taps, electric meter set, telecom drops). Get work order numbers.
   • Verify easements and right-of-way permissions for trenching or street openings.
2. 6–8 weeks out:
   • Schedule joint trenching where possible (electric, gas, telecom). If separate trenches, map them now with separation distances.
   • Order long-lead gear: meter base with lever bypass if your utility requires it, larger electrical panels, backflow preventers, PRVs, irrigation meters, CSST bonding hardware.
   • Call 811 to locate existing lines before trenching. Plan to pothole critical crossings.
3. 4–6 weeks out:
   • Install service entrance equipment (meter base, main panel, service disconnect, grounding, bonding).
   • Stub out gas and water to meter locations; install sleeves through foundations if needed.
   • Final grade within 6–12 inches so utilities can set depths. Temporary power remains active for interior work.
4. 3–4 weeks out:
   • Trench and place conduits/service laterals. Install pull strings and mark conduit ends clearly.
   • House piping tests: gas pressure test, water piping leak check, sewer lateral test as required.
   • Schedule inspections: electrical service inspection (service release), plumbing/gas, sewer lateral. Your AHJ must release the service before utilities set meters in many jurisdictions.
5. 2–3 weeks out:
   • Electric: utility meter set and energization after service release.
   • Gas: meter set after pressure test passes; appliances ready for startup.
   • Water: meter set and flushing; install backflow and PRV if specified. Irrigation meter set if applicable.
   • Sewer: final tie-in and inspection. Septic: final inspection and commissioning.
6. 1–2 weeks out:
   • Telecom drop or fiber install; ONT and gateway placement.
   • HVAC startup and balancing, water heater commissioning, appliance tests.
   • Site restoration and final grade. Remove temporary power.
7. Week of CO:
   • Final building inspections. Provide proof of utilities (often required).
   • Label all shutoffs and provide homeowner orientation.

I’ve found that a simple Gantt chart pinned to the jobsite wall, with utility milestones, avoids a lot of “I thought you were calling them” moments.

Permits, Fees, and Paperwork You’ll See

Utilities love paperwork. Get ahead of it and you’ll shave weeks off your schedule.

• Electric:
  • Load calculation (Manual J/S informs HVAC load; electrician completes NEC load calc to size service).
  • Meter base specifications: many utilities require a lever bypass meter base for residential >200A.
  • Service release: AHJ inspection approval sent to utility before they’ll set a meter.
  • Costs: service connection fees vary. Overhead drop may be no charge to modest fee. Underground service often $1,000–$5,000 for the utility’s portion; trenching/conduit by your team runs ~$10–$30/ft depending on soil and depth.
• Gas (natural):
  • Gas load letter: list appliances with BTU ratings; utility sizes meter and regulator pressure (standard 7–8” WC or 2 psi systems).
  • Pressure test results for house piping (commonly 10–25 psi air test for 10–15 minutes; check your plumbing code).
  • Utility service application; some require a deposit or proof of occupancy.
  • Costs: main-to-meter can be utility’s expense up to a certain footage; beyond that you pay per foot. I’ve seen $0 up to $2,500+ depending on distance and roadway crossings.
• Propane (if no natural gas):
  • Tank lease or purchase contract, site plan showing distances from structures, set-backs, and property lines.
  • Two-stage regulator design; trench for yard line with tracer wire.
  • Costs: 500-gallon above-ground tank purchase ~$2,000–$3,500; buried $3,500–$6,000 plus excavation. Fuel at start-up often 100–200 gallons.
• Water:
  • Tap application, meter size confirmation (3/4″, 1″, 1-1/2″ for larger demands).
  • Backflow preventer approval if you have irrigation or fire sprinklers.
  • PRV if static pressure exceeds local thresholds (often ~80 psi).
  • Fees: System Development Charges (SDCs) or impact/tap fees can range from $1,000 to $20,000+ depending on jurisdiction and meter size. Ongoing monthly minimums rise with meter size.
• Sewer:
  • Tap permit and inspection for lateral connection; sometimes a TV (camera) inspection is required.
  • Infiltration/exfiltration tests for lateral.
  • Fees: connection fees often $2,000–$8,000. Street opening permits and restoration can add $1,500–$10,000 where roads are involved.
• Septic:
  • Health department permit, approved plan, perc test, system sizing.
  • Final inspection; as-built drawings required.
  • Costs: $8,000–$25,000 depending on soil, tank size, and drainfield type.
• Telecom:
  • Service order with provider; builder drop request forms exist in many markets.
  • Proof of power available at demarcation and a single-point ground.
  • Costs: residential drop often free with new service; long driveways can incur $/ft charges. In rural areas, expect $500–$3,000 if the provider extends.
• Street work and traffic control:
  • If any utility work crosses a public roadway, you may need a right-of-way permit, traffic control plan, and a bonded contractor. Plan for 2–6 weeks of approvals.
  • Costs: traffic control crew typically $1,000–$3,000/day.

Site Readiness: What the Utility Needs to See

Most delays come from small site readiness misses. Here’s a checklist to run a week before you try to schedule meter sets or trench work.

General site readiness:

• Address posted clearly, visible from the street.
• Driveable access for bucket trucks or utility trailers.
• Final grade within 6–12 inches so trench depths and clearances can be met.
• Work areas cleared of debris and materials. No stacked stone pallets where the trench must go.
• 811 locate completed; underground utilities marked; private utilities (like your own sprinkler lines or low-voltage conduit) identified for the crew.

Electric readiness:

• Meter base installed, plumb, at the utility-approved height (common range 4–6 feet to center).
• Service conductors landed (if customer-owned from a handhole/transformer) with correct labeling and torque.
• Grounding electrodes installed and bonded; service disconnect mounted if required.
• Service inspection passed and release submitted to utility.
• Temporary power plan for switchover coordinated so interior trades aren’t stranded.

Gas readiness:

• House gas piping complete, capped, and on test with a visible gauge.
• Meter location accessible and meets clearances from electrical equipment and openings (often 3 feet horizontally from electric meters and sources of ignition; check your utility’s spec).
• Trench path clear or yard line route staked.
• Appliances installed or at least set and vented for startup soon after meter.

Water readiness:

• Meter box area accessible and cleared; curb stop located if existing.
• Backflow preventer and PRV on hand if required inside or outside.
• Piping labeled for domestic vs irrigation if you have dual meters.
• Interior accessible for meter turn-on and leak check.

Sewer readiness:

• Lateral stub found and marked; invert elevation confirmed.
• Cleanouts installed at property line and near structure, as required.
• Bedding and slope set; fittings glued or gasketed properly.
• Test scheduled (air or water) and inspector on calendar.

Telecom readiness:

• Conduit (often 1–2”) from demarcation to low-voltage panel with pull string installed.
• ONT/fiber gateway location chosen with a dedicated outlet and ventilation.
• Structured wiring homeruns labeled and landed in a panel.

Electric Service: Temporary to Permanent Without Drama

Electric is usually the pace car for the final phase. You can’t commission HVAC or most appliances without it.

Key steps:

1. Confirm service size and meter base details:
   • Typical homes: 200A single-phase, but 400A is common for larger builds, EV chargers, pools, and dual HVAC systems.
   • Utilities increasingly require lever-bypass meter bases for faster swap-outs. Your electrician should confirm the exact catalog number from the utility’s service guide.
2. Nail the meter location:
   • Avoid locations that conflict with gas meters or generator exhaust.
   • Keep the path for the utility crew simple. Corner of the house near the driveway is often ideal.
3. Coordinate underground vs overhead:
   • Overhead: utility sets a weatherhead and runs a drop from the pole. You need the riser and attachment point installed to their spec.
   • Underground: you may be responsible for trench and conduit from the transformer or pedestal to the meter base. Maintain required depth (often 24–36” cover) and bend radii. Install pull string.
4. Schedule inspections and release:
   • Most utilities require the electrical AHJ to release the service after inspecting the meter base and main panel install. Don’t call the utility before you have that release in the system.
5. Plan the switchover:
   • Temporary power feeds saws and air compressors until permanent power goes live. Coordinate a switchover day where the electrician transfers circuits, the panel is energized, and temp poles are removed.

Timeframe and costs:

• Lead times vary: some utilities set residential meters in 3–5 business days after release; others quote 2–3 weeks during peak season.
• Costs: If you’re responsible for trenching, budget $10–$30/ft for open trench, more for rock or boring. Service upgrades in older neighborhoods may incur coordination with the utility for transformer capacity.

Common mistakes to avoid:

• Wrong meter base: I’ve had a site sit a week because a 200A base without a lever bypass showed up in a utility territory that requires one. Always match the utility’s exact spec sheet.
• Clearances: Too close to gas meter or windows. Keep 3 feet from sources of ignition and doors/windows depending on local rules.
• No service release: The utility scheduler can’t help you without it. Treat it like a boarding pass.

Pro tip: If you’re installing EV chargers, have the electrician pull dedicated circuits now and label the panel. Some utilities offer EV rates or rebates that require documentation at the time of meter set.

Gas: Natural Gas and Propane Done Right

Natural gas is straightforward when the main is in front of your lot. It can be a saga when the main is far away or when a road crossing is required.

Natural gas coordination:

• Load letter: List every gas appliance with BTUs: furnace, water heater, range, fireplace, dryer, pool heater, standby generator. Total them and submit. The utility sizes the meter and regulator.
• Meter location: Keep it accessible, ventilated, and within utility guidelines. Avoid tight side yards and under decks. Maintain clearance from electric service and openings.
• Yard line and pressure testing:
  • House piping is installed and pressure-tested by your plumber. Keep the gauge on and visible for the inspector and the utility.
  • If the utility runs the yard line, they will trench or bore and install PE pipe with tracer wire. If it’s your responsibility, maintain depth (commonly 18–24” cover) and separation from electric and water.

Propane alternative:

• Tank siting: Observe setbacks—typically 10 feet from buildings and property lines for 500-gallon above-ground tanks (varies locally). Ensure the delivery truck can access.
• Underground tanks: Require cathodic protection and anodes. Coordinate inspection by the propane supplier.
• Two-stage regulators: One at the tank, one at the house. Provide proper venting and snow/ice protection.
• Costs and timing: Above-ground installs can be done in a day if the pad and trench are ready. Underground takes longer due to excavation, backfill, and inspection.

Startup and commissioning:

• After the meter is set (or tank filled), your plumber purges air, lights pilots, and sets appliance gas pressures. HVAC techs should tune furnaces and check combustion.
• Venting matters. I’ve watched a final walk-through stall because a water heater vent termination landed too close to a window. Fixes get expensive when siding is finished.

Lead times and costs:

• Natural gas meter sets often run 1–4 weeks from application in established neighborhoods; 4–8 weeks if a main extension is needed.
• Propane can be faster: 3–10 days once you sign the agreement and the site is ready.
• Costs: Natural gas yard line may be free up to a footage allowance; above that, expect a per-foot charge. Propane tanks: lease fees from $50–$150/year or buy the tank outright.

Common mistakes:

• Undersized meter: If you added a generator late, tell the gas company. Generators can add 100k–250k BTU.
• Regulator vent under a roof or snow load: Keep clearances and protect the vent from ice dams.
• No tracer wire on buried non-metallic lines: You’ll regret it when you need to locate a leak later.

Water: From Tap to Test to Turn-On

Water can feel “simple,” but meter size choices and backflow requirements can create headaches if you leave them last-minute.

Service and meter:

• Meter size depends on fixture count, irrigation, and fire sprinklers. A 3/4″ meter is common; 1″ for larger homes or irrigation. Fire sprinklers often push you to 1″ or larger.
• Backflow preventer: Required for irrigation and fire lines in many jurisdictions. Confirm whether it goes outside in a heated enclosure or inside with a drain.
• PRV: If street pressure runs hot (90–120 psi in some areas), install a PRV to protect fixtures and avoid voiding warranties.

Chlorination and flushing:

• New lines sometimes require flushing before use. In subdivisions, the builder or water authority may chlorinate and sample for bacteria if you extended mains.
• After meter set, run each fixture to purge air and debris. Clean aerators; they clog with solder balls and grit.

Costs and lead times:

• Tap and meter fees: $1,000–$10,000+ depending on city and meter size.
• Install timing: 1–3 weeks for a standard meter set once the tap is ready. If the main needs a new tap in the street, you may need traffic control and a road patch—plan 2–6 weeks.

Common mistakes:

• No heat in a cold climate: If your meter is inside and the house isn’t heated yet, pipes can freeze. Use a safe temporary heat source or delay turn-on until HVAC is running.
• Irrigation tie-in before backflow is installed: Inspectors will red-tag it.

Pro tip: Install a hose bib on both sides of the PRV. It gives you a quick diagnostic of street pressure vs house pressure later.

Sewer or Septic: Quietly Critical

Sewer: municipal tie-in

• Find the stub: Builders lose days hunting for a stub that the developer buried. Get as-builts early and use a probe or locate equipment.
• Slope and bedding: 1/4″ per foot is common for 4″ pipe; too much slope can cause solids to stall. Use proper sand or gravel bedding.
• Cleanouts: At the house and near the property line, brought to grade with protective boxes.
• Testing: Air test or water test as required; some jurisdictions require a camera inspection before covering.
• Final connection: Coordinate with the city if you’re tapping the main. Use mission couplings and avoid mismatched pipe materials without proper adapters.

Septic: private system

• Confirm the design: Tank size, pump chamber if needed, drainfield type (gravity, pressure, mound).
• Install with a licensed contractor; follow the plan exactly. Health departments scrutinize setbacks and elevations.
• Water conservation fixtures help protect your field over time, especially in marginal soils.
• Final inspection: Don’t backfill risers and lids until inspected. Provide as-builts for the homeowner.

Costs:

• Sewer laterals: $2,000–$10,000 depending on length, depth, and street work.
• Septic systems: $8,000–$25,000; advanced treatment systems and mounds can exceed $30,000.

Common mistakes:

• Wrong elevation: A high lateral at the house can force you into an ejector pump you didn’t plan on.
• Landscaping too soon: Keep heavy equipment off leach fields and avoid planting trees whose roots will invade laterals.

Telecom: Don’t Let Internet Be the Last Surprise

Everyone assumes internet is easy—until the provider pushes the drop three weeks past your CO. Get it into the utility sequence.

What to do:

• Order service as soon as permanent power is scheduled. Most providers won’t install until power is on so their ONT can boot.
• Provide a 1–2” conduit from the demarcation point outside to the low-voltage panel inside, with a pull string and sweeping bends.
• Pick the ONT location with ventilation and a dedicated receptacle. Garages and utility rooms work well. Avoid hot attics.

Lead times and costs:

• New construction drops are often 1–3 weeks if the provider has plant in the street. Rural fiber extensions can be months.
• Many providers install at no charge with a service commitment; long driveways or private roads may incur per-foot charges or cost shares.

Pro tip: Pull a second empty conduit from the demarcation to the street or driveway edge. It’s cheap now and a life-saver if you switch providers or add a gate or camera later.

Joint Trenching and Separation Distances

Joint trenching saves money and yard scars, but you must follow separation rules to avoid cross-utility hazards and failed inspections.

Typical guidelines (always verify locally):

• Horizontal separation:
  • Electric to gas: 12–24 inches
  • Electric to water/sewer: 12–24 inches
  • Gas to water/sewer: 12–24 inches
• Vertical separation:
  • 12 inches between utilities when crossing, with electric above sewer where possible.
• Depth of cover:
  • Electric: commonly 24–36 inches
  • Gas: commonly 18–24 inches
  • Water: below frost line; 36 inches+ in cold climates
  • Sewer: set by slope and depth to connect

Best practices:

• Use caution tape 12 inches above each line.
• Tracer wire on all nonmetallic gas and water lines.
• Sweeping bends; avoid sharp offsets that make future locates and pulls difficult.
• Take photos with a tape measure before backfill. Keep them in the project closeout packet.

Cost savings:

• Joint trenching can save $5–$15/ft compared to separate trenches, especially with a single mobilization. I’ve seen $2,000–$6,000 saved on medium-length runs.

Inspections and Testing: Pass the First Time

You don’t get a CO without passing tests and inspections. These are the big ones:

• Electrical service inspection:
  • Inspector checks meter base, service disconnect, grounding electrode system, conductor sizes, working clearances. If it’s clean, they release the service to the power company.
• Gas pressure test:
  • Gauge installed, pressure stabilized (commonly 10–25 psi) for the specified duration with no drop. Valves and appliances isolated as required.
• Water system:
  • Visual leak checks at meter turn-on. If sprinklers are installed, backflow test by a certified tester.
• Sewer:
  • Air/water test of the lateral; cleanouts visible; slope confirmed. Some jurisdictions require a video inspection.
• Fire/sprinkler:
  • If applicable, flow tests, pressure verification, alarm tie-ins.

Pass-first-time tips:

• Schedule inspections with 48–72 hours cushion on either side of your target dates. Inspectors get busy.
• Have the installing contractor present for each inspection with a small kit of fixes: pipe dope, fittings, couplers, straps, screws. A 10-minute on-the-spot fix beats a re-inspection fee and a week’s delay.
• Label everything. Inspectors love clarity: panel schedules filled out, shutoffs tagged, backflow devices labeled.

Safety and Damage Prevention

No utility hookup is worth a lost day due to an accident or a damaged line.

• Call 811 before digging. Expect utilities to mark within 2–3 business days. Pothole critical crossings.
• Trench safety: Slopes or shoring for trenches over 5 feet deep. Keep spoil piles 2 feet from the edge. Ladder within 25 feet of workers.
• Live lines: Assume everything is energized/pressurized. Establish no-touch zones. Only the utility should open their equipment.
• Gas leaks: If you smell gas, evacuate, call the utility from a safe distance, and do not cycle electrical switches. I’ve seen a homeowner “just check one thing” and make it worse.

Weather and Seasonal Planning

Seasonality matters more than most people expect.

• Winter:
  • Frozen ground slows trenching or stops it. You may need ground heaters or wait-outs.
  • Asphalt plants close or reduce hours; road restorations get pushed to spring. Some cities issue temporary patches with bonds.
  • Heat for the house is needed to protect water lines after meter set.
• Spring:
  • Load limits on rural roads can restrict heavy trucks.
  • Wet conditions collapse trenches and force rework.
• Summer:
  • Utilities book up. Lead times stretch to 3–6 weeks.
  • Wildfire or hurricane seasons pull utility crews to emergencies.
• Fall:
  • Good window for finishing site work before frost. Watch the calendar for holiday slowdowns.

Build a 10–15% schedule cushion around utility milestones during these windows.

Budgeting: Realistic Numbers and Where Overruns Hide

Ballpark ranges I see on typical single-family projects:

• Electric service (customer portion): $1,500–$6,000 for trenching, conduit, meter base, and panel work. Utility fees vary widely.
• Gas service (natural): $0–$2,500 for service depending on distance; plumber’s house piping is separate. Propane system: $2,000–$6,000 plus fuel.
• Water: $1,000–$10,000+ for tap/meter, not counting interior plumbing.
• Sewer lateral: $2,000–$10,000; septic system: $8,000–$25,000.
• Telecom: Often included; rural extensions $500–$3,000.
• Street opening/traffic control: $1,500–$10,000+ when roads are involved.

Hidden costs:

• Rock excavation or boring: adds $20–$60/ft.
• Restoration: sod, seed, irrigation repair, driveway/pavement patches.
• Up-sizing: moving from 3/4″ to 1″ water meter or 200A to 400A service increases fees.
• Change orders: late-add appliances (pool heater, generator) that force meter re-sizing or regulator swaps.

Plan a 10–20% contingency on utility allowances unless you have fixed quotes.

Who Owns What: Demarcation and Long-Term Responsibility

Understanding ownership limits avoids warranty fights later.

• Electric: Utility owns from the transformer/pole to and through the meter. You own from the meter into the house. In some areas, you own the underground lateral too—confirm with your utility.
• Gas: Utility often owns up to and including the meter/regulator. You own downstream piping.
• Water: Utility usually owns to the meter, sometimes to the curb stop. You own from meter to house.
• Sewer: You own the lateral from the house to the main, even under the street in many cities.
• Telecom: Provider owns to the demarcation; you own inside wiring.

Document this in your homeowner handover: photos, maps, shutoff locations, and contacts.

Sample Coordination Plan You Can Copy

Use this as a template for your next project. I keep a similar checklist laminated in a job binder.

Week -10 to -8:

• Finalize utility service sizes and meter locations with trades.
• Submit electric, gas, water, sewer, and telecom applications. Get work order numbers.
• Confirm easements and right-of-way constraints.

Week -8 to -6:

• Order long-lead materials (meter base, backflow, PRV).
• Call 811 for preliminary locates on known trench paths.
• Create a site utility plan drawing with routes, depths, and separations.

Week -6 to -4:

• Install meter base, main panel, and grounding.
• Stub out water and gas to meter locations.
• Schedule inspector walkthroughs for pre-final service components.

Week -4:

• Perform trenching/joint trench; lay conduits and service lines with tracer wires and caution tape.
• Pressure test gas; leak test water; assemble sewer lateral.
• Schedule inspections: electrical service release, gas pressure test, sewer lateral.

Week -3:

• Pass inspections; send service release to electric utility.
• Call utility dispatch: schedule electric meter set/energization.
• Schedule gas meter set contingent on passing pressure test.
• Coordinate water meter set and backflow install.

Week -2:

• Electric live; switch from temporary to permanent power.
• Gas meter set; plumber and HVAC techs commission appliances.
• Water meter set; flush lines; test backflow; set PRV.
• Complete sewer connection or septic inspection.

Week -1:

• Telecom install; activate internet service.
• Final site restoration; remove temp power pole.
• Label shutoffs; assemble homeowner binder with manuals and as-builts.

CO Week:

• Final inspections; address punch list.
• Walk homeowner through utilities: show shutoffs, emergency numbers, and maintenance.

Two Real-World Scenarios

Scenario 1: Suburban infill, tight side yard, all public utilities available

• Challenge: Limited side clearance for meters and separation.
• Approach: We moved the electric meter to the front corner, gas meter to the opposite side near the garage, and ran telecom in the same electric trench with proper separation. A 1″ water meter supported both domestic use and a modest irrigation system with a dedicated backflow.
• Outcome: Electric meter set within 5 days of service release; gas meter in 10 days after pressure test. CO on schedule. Cost savings from joint trench: roughly $2,400.

Scenario 2: Rural lot, well and septic, propane

• Challenge: Long driveway, no natural gas, telecom a maybe.
• Approach: Installed a 500-gallon above-ground propane tank 12 feet from the garage with two-stage regulators. Pulled a spare conduit along the driveway for future internet. Sized the electrical service to 400A for a shop and EV charger.
• Outcome: We had heat and hot water 48 hours after the tank fill. Telecom arrived four weeks after move-in, but the spare conduit let the contractor pull fiber in a day for a reasonable fee. Septic passed first inspection; homeowner got a clear maintenance plan.

Common Pitfalls I See (And How to Avoid Them)

• Meter location conflicts:
  • Fix: Confirm utility clearance diagrams during framing, not after siding. Stake meter locations with flags. Snap a photo and send it to the utility for pre-approval.
• Missed service release:
  • Fix: Treat the electrical service inspection like a milestone. Don’t schedule the power company until you see the release in their system.
• Underestimating lead times:
  • Fix: Ask each utility for current residential lead times and build them into your calendar. Follow up weekly—polite persistence works wonders.
• No joint trench plan:
  • Fix: Hold a 30-minute field meeting with the electrician, plumber, and excavator. Sketch the trench path and separations and mark it with paint.
• Pressure test fail on gas:
  • Fix: Test early, isolate segments if needed, and use bubble solution on fittings. Keep the gauge installed and protected.
• Freezing risk:
  • Fix: If water is on in winter and heat isn’t, don’t leave the house unheated. Use safe temporary heat or wait to turn water on.
• Telecom as an afterthought:
  • Fix: Order telecom as soon as permanent power is scheduled. Install a dedicated conduit and power at the demarc.
• Generator and pool heater added late:
  • Fix: Lock appliances early. If you must add later, immediately notify gas and electric to re-size meters and panels if needed.

Commissioning and Closeout: Finish Strong

Once utilities are live, use a deliberate commissioning sequence. This is where new homes feel “finished.”

• Electric:
  • Verify panel labeling matches installed circuits.
  • Test GFCI/AFCI devices.
  • Test whole-house surge protection if installed.
• HVAC:
  • Start up equipment per manufacturer procedures.
  • Check static pressures, temperature splits, and refrigerant charges.
  • Balance airflow to rooms; document settings.
• Water:
  • Flush all lines; clean aerators.
  • Set PRV to a comfortable 60–70 psi if needed.
  • Check water heater for correct temperature and expansion tank pre-charge.
• Gas:
  • Verify manifold pressures at appliances.
  • Check vent terminations and clearances.
  • Install CO detectors per code.
• Sewer/Septic:
  • Run multiple fixtures simultaneously; check for slow drains or gurgling.
  • For septic, verify pump operation (if any) and alarm.
• Telecom:
  • Confirm internet speed at the ONT and at a wireless device. Adjust access point placement if coverage is weak.
• Documentation for the homeowner:
  • Provide utility contact info, meter numbers, and where to shut things off.
  • Include as-built photos of underground lines with measurements from fixed points.
  • Maintenance schedule: septic pumping, backflow testing, PRV checks, generator service.

I’ve had warranty calls vanish because the homeowner binder answered the question before they dialed.

Advanced Considerations You’ll Be Glad You Thought About

• Solar PV and battery storage:
  • Coordinate interconnection applications early; utilities often need 4–8 weeks. Install a meter socket with a bypass as required. Make room for a generation meter if your utility uses one.
  • Plan for rapid shutdown and clear labeling per NEC.
• Fire sprinklers:
  • If your home has a sprinkler system, confirm meter sizing and backflow assemblies early. Many water departments require a dedicated fire service or an upsized combined service.
• Irrigation:
  • Separate irrigation meter can reduce sewer charges. It adds upfront cost but saves in many cities over time.
• Standby generators:
  • Confirm transfer switch type (service-rated vs non-service-rated) and placement. Gas utilities need the generator BTU load for meter sizing.
• Accessibility and future service:
  • Leave 3 feet clearance in front of panels and meters.
  • Keep shrubs and fences from encroaching on meters and cleanouts.
  • Install spare conduits under driveways and patios before you pour.

A Step-by-Step Troubleshooting Guide for Last-Minute Snags

• Utility says they don’t see your service release:
  • Action: Call the AHJ, get the release re-sent, and ask for a confirmation number. Email it to the utility scheduler with your work order.
• Gas meter delayed but you need heat:
  • Action: If propane is an option, consider a temporary propane setup for the furnace with your HVAC and fuel supplier, following code. Not always practical, but it’s saved a couple of winter projects for me.
• Water meter set, but no pressure inside:
  • Action: Check the curb stop, backflow, PRV orientation, and shutoffs at the water heater. Confirm that a plumber didn’t leave a cap in a union.
• Sewer fails camera inspection:
  • Action: Identify low spots or misaligned joints. Dig and fix immediately before hardscapes go in. Do not rely on “it’ll be fine.”
• Telecom can’t find your conduit:
  • Action: Use a steel fish tape to locate from inside. If needed, dig the last few feet to expose the stub at the demarc. Paint and flag it for the tech.

A Quick Communication Template That Works

Email to utility scheduler:

• Subject: Service Release and Meter Set Request – [Address], [Work Order #]
• Body:
  • Project: [Address]
  • Work Order: [#]
  • Service Release: Sent by [AHJ] on [date] (Confirmation #[if any])
  • Meter Base: [Model #, lever bypass yes/no]
  • Site Ready: Access clear, address posted, photos attached
  • Contact On-Site: [Name, phone]
  • Requested Window: [Date range], flexible to [alternate dates]
  • Notes: [Any special access instructions]

Send it with two clear photos: the meter location and the street access. You’ll be amazed how much faster schedulers respond when they can see the site.

Final Thoughts from the Field

Coordinating utility hookups isn’t glamorous. It’s phone calls, flags, and fittings. But it’s also where projects are won or lost on schedule and client satisfaction. If you treat utilities as a project within the project—complete with a timeline, owners, and checklists—you’ll avoid almost all of the painful delays I see on punch lists.

Keep your crew aligned, stay slightly ahead of the calendar, and over-communicate with the utility reps. Do that, and those last 10% days will be about finishing touches, not chasing meter trucks down the street.