How to Get Historical Property Approvals for a Build

If you’re planning to build on or alter a historic property, the approvals can feel like a maze: acronyms, guidelines, hearings, Tax Credits, and more paperwork than a mortgage file. I’ve taken dozens of projects through historic reviews—everything from kitchen additions on 1890s cottages to full adaptive reuse of early 20th-century warehouses—and there’s a rhythm to getting approvals without losing months or blowing the budget. This guide breaks that process into practical steps, with real examples, timelines, and the kinds of details that commissions actually care about.

What “historic” means—and why that matters for your project

Not every old building triggers historic approvals. The scope and stringency of review depend on how the property is designated and where it sits.

• National Register of Historic Places: A federal list. Listing alone doesn’t usually restrict private work unless there’s federal money, permits, or land involved (then Section 106 applies). But National Register status can unlock tax credits.
• Local landmark or historic district: This is where most approvals come from. If your property is a designated landmark or within a local historic district, the local Historic Preservation Commission (HPC), Historic Landmarks Commission (HLC), Architectural Review Board (ARB), or similar body will likely require a Certificate of Appropriateness (COA) for exterior changes, additions, and sometimes visible site work.
• Contributing vs. non-contributing: In historic districts, properties are labeled “contributing” (they add to the district’s significance) or “non-contributing” (e.g., newer infill). Contributing structures face tighter scrutiny. Non-contributing buildings get more latitude, but new work still must be compatible with the district.
• Overlays and conservation areas: Cities use overlays—like Heritage Overlay Zones (Australia), Conservation Areas (UK), or HPOZ (Los Angeles)—to set customized rules for specific neighborhoods. Rules often include specific materials, roof forms, window proportions, and siting.

Practical example:

• A 1912 Craftsman bungalow inside a local historic district in Atlanta (contributing) needed a rear addition. It triggered a COA, design guidelines, neighbor notice, and a hearing.
• A 1978 duplex two blocks away (non-contributing) still needed a COA for new street-facing windows, but the review emphasized scale and placement, not replication of historic details.

Why this matters: Your designation controls everything—from whether you can install solar on the front roof plane to the acceptable width of your porch columns. Knowing the designation early prevents costly redesigns.

Who has a say: the approval landscape

Several players may be involved. Understanding their roles helps you map the fastest path:

• Local historic commission (HPC/HLC/ARB): The main gatekeeper for exterior changes. They issue Certificates of Appropriateness (COAs) for work visible from a public way (and sometimes for all exterior work).
• Planning and zoning: If your project includes additions, new units, or setback/height variances, you may need planning approvals separate from the historic review.
• Building department: Issues Building Permits. They’ll check compliance with codes (structural, fire, energy) after you have your COA. Keep drawings consistent across submittals to avoid rework.
• State Historic Preservation Office (SHPO): Advises on projects with state or federal involvement and reviews applications for state or federal historic tax credits. Expect a 30-day review window for many SHPO processes.
• Federal agencies: If federal funds, permits, or land are involved (like HUD funds, USDA loans, Army Corps permits), the project may require Section 106 review—consultation among SHPO, tribes, agencies, and stakeholders to consider effects on historic resources.
• Tribal consultation and archaeology: Ground-disturbing work in sensitive areas may require archaeological monitoring, even for private projects when certain triggers apply.
• Neighborhood or design advisory boards: Some cities require informal advisory reviews. They’re not binding but influence the HPC.

Tip: Ask the city if your local government is a “Certified Local Government” (CLG). CLG programs often have clear guidelines, trained commissions, and staff who can approve minor work administratively—faster and simpler.

First steps: due diligence you can do in a week

Do this before hiring a design team or sketching your dream addition:

1. Pull the property’s designation and maps. – City GIS map or planning website often shows landmark status and district boundaries. – Ask the planning department for the “designation report” (it explains why the property/district is significant).
2. Get the rules. – Download the district’s design guidelines. These documents spell out allowed window types, porch details, rooflines, locations for additions, fencing heights, and more.
3. Read the Secretary of the Interior’s Standards for Rehabilitation. – Most commissions lean on these ten standards—compatibility, distinguishability, reversibility, protection of historic materials, and so on. They’re not just theory; they guide your design.
4. Inventory existing conditions. – Take photos of the entire exterior, all sides. Note character-defining features (original windows, siding, trim, porches, chimneys). – Identify prior alterations. If someone slapped vinyl siding over wood shingles in the 1990s, that changes what’s considered “historic fabric.”
5. Check covenants and easements. – Some properties have conservation or façade easements held by nonprofits. These carry their own review requirements.
6. Flag other constraints. – Floodplain? Seismic zone? Tree protection? Coastal Commission jurisdiction? These can heavily influence design and materials.
7. Scope your goals honestly. – “Add a primary suite and modern kitchen” is a design problem we can solve. “Turn an 1890 cottage into a glass box visible from the street” will invite pushback. Calibrate your ambitions to what the guidelines allow.

Typical timeframe: You can complete this due diligence in 5–10 business days. It’s the cheapest time to pivot if your idea clashes with the rules.

Strategy: what gets approved vs. what gets you sent back

Through a lot of hearings, I’ve noticed patterns. Commissions consistently support certain moves and resist others.

What generally works:

• Additions at the rear or set back from the primary façade. A “hyphen” connector can separate new from old.
• Matching massing, rhythm, and proportions rather than copying ornament. Let the new be “of its time” but compatible.
• Preserving original materials and features. Repair beats replace.
• Reversible interventions. If a future owner can remove your addition without destroying the historic core, you’re in safer territory.
• Differentiation by subtle detail. A simple reveal between new siding and old, or a shift in material texture, signals what’s new.
• Locating solar, mechanicals, and vents away from primary elevations—rear roofs, behind parapets, or at ground level screened by landscaping.
• Using the right mortar and cleaning methods for masonry. Gentle cleaning, no sandblasting, and mortar that matches historic composition and compressive strength.
• Matching window divisions and profiles when replacing non-original windows. If originals remain, repair is usually required.

What gets pushback:

• Demolishing character-defining features (original windows, porches, distinctive brickwork).
• Increasing height at the front, especially if it alters the streetscape.
• Faux-historic details applied like stage props. Commissions prefer authenticity to mimicry.
• Vinyl windows, fake divided lights, and cladding that hides or removes historic material.
• Oversized decks and rooftop additions visible from the street.
• Aggressive masonry cleaning, repointing with Portland-rich mortar, or painting previously unpainted brick.

Reality check:

• Many commissions will approve wood/clad windows with true divided lights or simulated divided lights with spacer bars where appropriate. All-vinyl with bulky profiles rarely passes for contributing façades.
• If the original windows are intact, plan to repair and weather-strip rather than replace. We’ve achieved air leakage reductions comparable to mid-range replacements by pairing repairs with interior storm windows.

Build your team early

For anything beyond minor repairs, assemble a team that’s fluent in preservation.

• Preservation architect (or architect with strong historic experience): Expect $150–$300/hr or a flat fee based on project scope.
• Structural engineer with old-building chops: $140–$250/hr. Traditional framing, masonry arches, and old foundations behave differently than modern assemblies.
• MEP engineers who understand discreet routes for ducting and vents in historic structures.
• Preservation contractor: Verify portfolio and references. The best ones know how to save old fabric, not just replace it.
• Archaeologist (if ground disturbance in sensitive areas is likely): $2,000–$15,000 depending on scope.
• Historic tax credit consultant (if using credits): Often 1%–3% of Qualified Rehabilitation Expenditures (QREs) or hourly.
• Permit expeditor (in jurisdictions with complex queues).
• Attorney (if you anticipate appeals or contentious hearings): $300–$600/hr; often not needed, but helpful for large infill projects in districts.

I’ve watched strong teams cut months off schedules simply by producing clear drawings, offering smart compromises, and speaking the commission’s language.

Pre-application: the most valuable hour you’ll spend

Schedule a “concept review” with planning/historic staff before you invest in full drawings. Many cities offer staff-level consultations at little or no cost.

Bring:

• A concise scope of work.
• Rough massing diagrams (simple 3D or axonometric views).
• Photos of the site and neighbors (streetscape context).
• Preliminary materials palette.
• A list of open questions.

Ask:

• What can staff approve administratively?
• What parts need a formal hearing?
• Any hot-button issues they’ve seen in recent cases?
• Submittal deadlines and completeness criteria.

Outcome:

• You’ll often leave with a do/don’t list anchored in local precedent: “Rear addition OK if set back 6 feet from side wall, lower than ridge; front porch repairs must match profiles; street-visible solar likely denied.”

Typical turnaround: 1–2 weeks to secure a meeting, 30–60 minutes of review, and same-day or next-day feedback.

The COA packet: what to include so you get a yes

A complete, well-organized submittal leads to shorter hearings and fewer conditions. Here’s what has worked across cities:

• Cover letter: One page that states the project goals, summarizes compliance with the standards, and notes any variance requests.
• Site plan: Show property lines, setbacks, existing and proposed footprints, and adjacent structures.
• Floor plans: Existing and proposed, clearly labeled.
• Elevations: Existing and proposed, annotated with dimensions and materials. Include streetscape elevations showing nearby buildings if massing is changing.
• Sections and details: Especially for additions, roof tie-ins, and transitions between old and new.
• Window and door schedules: Types, materials, muntin patterns, U-values if relevant, and cut sheets from the manufacturer.
• Materials board: Actual samples or high-quality photos with colors. Many commissions want to see clapboard profiles, brick, mortar color, roofing shingles, and trim profiles.
• Photo documentation: Keyed to a site plan, showing all façades and the street context. Use consistent vantage points and label directions (north/south/east/west).
• Visibility studies: Renderings or photosimulations from the sidewalk and oblique angles, especially for solar, rooftop additions, and rear extensions.
• Historic narrative: Briefly outline construction dates, alterations, and character-defining features. Reference the designation report.
• Compliance matrix: A bullet-by-bullet response to the relevant design guidelines and the Secretary’s Standards.
• Structural and code approach (for significant work): How you’ll reinforce floors, route MEP, address seismic/wind loads, fire separation, and egress without damaging historic material.
• Project timeline: So commissioners understand phasing.
• Neighbor outreach summary: If you met with adjacent owners or neighborhood groups, include letters of support.

If you’re seeking federal/state historic tax credits, synchronize drawings with your Part 2 application (for the federal 20% credit). Inconsistencies cause delays.

How the process typically unfolds: timeline, meetings, and decisions

Most jurisdictions follow a similar cadence. Here’s a common sequence for a medium-size residential addition:

• Week 0–2: Pre-application meeting and feedback.
• Week 2–6: Schematic design and neighborhood outreach; refine massing and materials.
• Week 6: Submit COA packet by deadline (often 3–4 weeks before the hearing).
• Week 6–8: Staff review and requests for revisions; staff report written.
• Week 9–10: Commission hearing. You present, commissioners ask questions, public comments are heard.
• Decision outcomes:
• Approval as submitted.
• Approval with conditions (most common).
• Continuance (they want revisions).
• Denial (uncommon if you’ve done the prep).

Public notice: Many cities mail notices to properties within 200–500 feet and/or require site posting. Factor a 10–14 day notice period into your schedule.

Appeals: If denied, you usually have 15–30 days to appeal to a higher body (Planning Commission or City Council). Appeals add 1–3 months.

Overall duration: Straightforward projects can secure a COA in 6–12 weeks from first contact. Complex infill or controversial designs can take 3–9 months.

What this costs

It’s not free, but a realistic budget prevents frustration later.

• Application fees: $100–$1,000+ depending on city and project size.
• Preservation architect: $10,000–$60,000+ for a single-family addition, depending on scope and drawings required. Complex adaptive reuse goes much higher.
• Engineers: $5,000–$25,000 for structural; MEP varies widely.
• Archaeology (if required): $2,000 for a desktop study; $5,000–$25,000 for monitoring or testing.
• Window strategy:
• Repairing original wood windows with weatherstripping and exterior/interior storms: $600–$1,200 per opening.
• High-quality wood/clad replacements with SDLs and spacer bars: $1,200–$2,500+ per opening. Vinyl is cheaper but often not approvable on primary façades.
• Documentation (renderings, visibility studies): $2,000–$10,000 depending on complexity.
• Permit expeditor: $2,000–$8,000 for residential; more for large projects.
• Legal (if needed for appeals): $5,000–$30,000+.

These costs often offset themselves through fewer redesign cycles, shorter timelines, and access to incentives like the 20% federal historic tax credit or local tax abatements.

Real-world scenarios: what got approved and why

1) Rear kitchen addition to an 1885 Queen Anne (Savannah, GA)

• Goal: Expand kitchen and add a powder room; preserve front façade.
• Strategy: One-story addition at rear with a low, hipped roof and a recessed “hyphen” connector. New siding matched exposure but used a subtle reveal trim at the connection. Original windows repaired; new addition used simple double-hungs with compatible proportions.
• Outcome: Approved with conditions to lower the roof by 8 inches and reduce the footprint 2 feet off the side lot line. Construction started two months later.
• Cost saver: Retaining original windows and adding interior storms saved ~30% vs. full replacement and passed energy review.

2) Window replacement on a 1920s Craftsman (Portland, OR)

• Goal: Replace deteriorated front windows and insulate walls.
• Strategy: Field assessment showed 70% of sash were repairable. We proposed repairing all front/sides and replacing only non-original rear aluminum sliders with wood/clad units. Added cellulose in walls using minimal interior patching.
• Outcome: Staff-level approval. No hearing required. Completed in six weeks total.
• Lesson: A repair-first mindset is faster and cheaper—plus it satisfies the commission.

3) New infill home in a historic district (Charleston, SC)

• Goal: Build on a vacant parcel between two pre-1900 homes.
• Strategy: Study the “street rhythm”—height, width, porch cadence, roof pitch, sill heights. The façade echoed proportions without copying details. Materials were honest: wood siding, standing seam metal roof, steel porch railings with simple profiles.
• Outcome: Approved on second hearing after we narrowed the façade by 18 inches and adjusted window-to-wall ratios. Neighbors supported it because it respected the block’s pattern.
• Key move: Detailed a shadow line at the foundation skirt to break down mass.

4) Solar panels on a 1910 bungalow (Boulder, CO)

• Goal: Install a 7 kW system.
• Strategy: Place panels on rear and side roof planes with least visibility; align arrays symmetrically; use black-on-black modules and flashings. Provided mockups and a drone shot “visibility test.”
• Outcome: Approved at staff level with conditions to use low-profile racking and concealed conduit. Took 30 days.

Preparing for the hearing: how to present like a pro

• Lead with purpose: “We’re adding a modest rear kitchen and bedroom to make the home livable for a family of four while preserving the street-facing character.”
• Show the context first: Streetscape photos, then your massing. Help the commission visualize.
• Use clear visuals: Simple, legible drawings. Avoid clutter. Label materials directly on the elevations.
• Address guidelines directly: “Per Standard 9, the addition is differentiated by a recessed connector and simplified trim, yet compatible in scale.”
• Offer a fallback: “If the commission prefers, we can reduce the roof height by 6 inches or shift the window alignment to match the bay.”
• Be transparent about materials: Bring samples. Commissioners trust what they can touch.
• Keep it calm and collaborative: I’ve watched heated presentations sink good projects. Treat feedback as part of the process.

Common pitfalls—and how to dodge them

• Replacing original windows by default. Many commissions require repair if feasible. Hire a window specialist to assess and provide a repair plan.
• Designing the addition you want before reading the guidelines. Reverse that order.
• Visible rooftop decks/additions. If you can see it from the sidewalk, assume it will be challenged.
• Sandblasting brick or using the wrong mortar. Always match mortar in composition, color, and tooling. Test patches help.
• Inconsistent drawings between COA and building permit. Keep a single source of truth. Note any changes clearly and loop staff in early.
• Underestimating lead paint/asbestos. Budget for testing. Encapsulation can preserve historic finishes and reduce demolition.
• Mechanical clutter on primary elevations. Route vents, flues, and condenser lines to rear or interior chases.
• Demolition without permits. Emergency bracing is fine; demolition of historic fabric without approvals is not. You can sink the project with one “temporary” removal.

Navigating special situations

Partial demolition and structural failures

• Document conditions thoroughly: engineer’s letter, photos, and monitored cracks.
• Request approval for “demolition of portions” with a rebuild plan that matches original forms and materials.
• If the structure is unsafe, the building official can issue an emergency order, but keep the commission looped in and preserve salvageable material where possible.

Code compliance without killing character

• Egress: Window wells at the rear yard are usually fine; adding a new punched opening on a primary elevation is not.
• Accessibility (commercial/mixed-use): Provide access at a secondary entrance if the primary entrance is character-defining. Document “disproportionate cost” thresholds to justify alternate methods if needed.
• Seismic zones: Use reversible anchors, straps hidden in floor assemblies, and brace frames in less visible locations.

Floodplains and coastal areas

• Elevating structures: Setbacks for new stairs and ramps matter. Use lattice skirts and minimize deck mass on the front.
• Materials: Flood-resistant materials below the base flood elevation are often required; commissioners focus on how they look and integrate.

Archaeology

• If your site is in a known cultural area, plan for Phase I survey. Budget time for potential monitoring during excavation. Delays usually tie to discoveries, not the initial study.

Non-contributing structures in districts

• You’ll get more flexibility, but compatibility still rules. Respect massing, setbacks, and rhythms.

Use incentives to fund better preservation

• Federal Historic Tax Credit (HTC): 20% of Qualified Rehabilitation Expenditures for income-producing properties (rentals, commercial). Requires National Park Service (NPS) Part 1 (evaluation), Part 2 (scope), and Part 3 (completion) approvals coordinated with SHPO. Start early; expect 30–60 days per review round.
• State historic credits: Many states add 10%–25% on top of federal credits. Some allow owner-occupied credits. Each state has its own rules and caps.
• Mills Act (California): Property tax reduction (often 20%–70%) in exchange for a preservation contract and approved work plan. Great for owner-occupied historic homes.
• Facade easements: Donation of a façade preservation easement to a nonprofit can yield a charitable deduction. Requires appraisals and legal agreements; not for every project.
• Local grants/loans: Some cities offer small grants for façade repairs, storefront improvements, or window rehabilitation.
• Utility incentives: Pair energy retrofits—like air sealing and heat pumps—with careful design that preserves features. Some programs recognize interior storms as legitimate efficiency measures.

Tip: Incentives often require approvals before work begins. If you build first and apply later, you’ll likely be ineligible.

After you get the COA: keeping permits and construction smooth

• Capture conditions of approval on your drawings. If the commission asked for a lower roof pitch or a specific window profile, annotate it clearly.
• Submit for building permits quickly. Include the COA approval letter and staff report.
• Managing change: If you need to adjust something visible (e.g., change a window model due to availability), ask staff whether it can be handled administratively. Don’t assume—it’s how projects accidentally slip into noncompliance.
• Construction mockups: Build a small on-site mockup of a siding corner, trim, or brick/mortar sample for staff sign-off. It prevents arguments after installation.
• Inspections: Some cities require a final preservation inspection to confirm compliance before a Certificate Of Occupancy. Schedule it early.

Step-by-step roadmap you can follow

1. Research designation, rules, and constraints (1–2 weeks).
2. Assemble your team and budget (1–2 weeks).
3. Concept meeting with staff (1–2 weeks to set up).
4. Schematic design and neighbor outreach (3–8 weeks).
5. Prepare the COA packet with thorough visuals (2–4 weeks).
6. Submit by the published deadline and respond to staff comments (2–3 weeks).
7. Present at the commission hearing; secure approval or revisions (2–4 weeks).
8. Apply for building permits; coordinate with incentives (3–8 weeks).
9. Begin construction with periodic check-ins; manage changes with staff sign-off.
10. Final inspection and closeout; file Part 3 for tax credits if applicable.

Realistic total time for a modest addition: 5–8 months to start construction, depending on the jurisdiction and your pace.

Practical design moves that save time and win approvals

• Keep the addition secondary: Lower ridge lines and set back from side elevations.
• Use a connector: A narrow “hyphen” between old and new helps satisfy compatibility and reversibility.
• Simplify trim on the new work: Let original ornament remain special.
• Match window proportions and alignments: Even on modern additions, line up sills and heads with the original.
• Hide utilities: Route condensers to the rear, use interior chases for venting, and paint exposed conduit to match.
• Invest in window repair: It’s often more cost-effective than you think, and it preserves character.
• Minimize roof penetrations: Combine vents where possible and keep them off primary elevations.
• Test masonry strategies: Do small test patches for cleaning and repointing and get staff to sign off.

Communication that keeps neighbors on your side

Historic districts come with passionate neighbors. Bring them in early.

• Host a porch chat or Zoom: Share your goals and early sketches.
• Address common concerns: Light, privacy, parking, and construction impacts.
• Offer mitigations: Planting screens, frosted glass on secondary windows, limiting noisy work hours.
• Gather letters of support: Include them in your COA packet. A supportive neighbor can neutralize a vocal critic.

What if you’re denied?

It happens, even to well-prepared teams.

• Ask for a continuance rather than a denial if you see the votes turning. Offer to revisit massing or materials.
• Request a staff debrief: What specific changes would lead to an approval?
• Consider a third-party peer review (some cities offer advisory architects).
• Appeal only when you have a strong basis. Appeals take time and can sour relationships for future phases.
• Re-scope your project: A smaller, rear-focused approach often gets you most of what you wanted with far less friction.

Regional quirks worth knowing

• New Orleans French Quarter (Vieux Carré Commission): Exceptionally strict on street-facing changes, materials, and shutters. Expect multiple rounds.
• San Francisco and Boston: Sophisticated guidelines with detailed technical standards; visibility from “public way” often includes alleys and slopes.
• Los Angeles HPOZs: Pattern books and color palettes are common; staff can approve many minor items quickly.
• UK Conservation Areas and Listed Buildings: Listed Building Consent is separate from planning permission; interior changes may be controlled. Engage a heritage consultant early.
• Australia Heritage Overlays: Councils favor like-for-like materials. Front setbacks and roof forms are closely protected.

Quick-reference checklists

Due diligence checklist:

• Pull designation report, maps, and district guidelines.
• Inventory character-defining features.
• Confirm easements/covenants.
• Identify other constraints (floodplain, trees, seismic).
• Read the Secretary’s Standards and local pattern books.
• Roughly define scope aligned with guidelines.

COA submittal checklist:

• Cover letter and compliance matrix.
• Site plan, floor plans, elevations, sections.
• Streetscape context and visibility studies.
• Materials board and cut sheets.
• Window/door schedules.
• Photo documentation keyed to a plan.
• Structural and code narrative (if significant work).
• Neighbor support letters.

Hearing day checklist:

• Printed boards or a clear digital presentation.
• Material samples.
• Talking points tied to standards.
• A list of acceptable conditions or minor concessions.
• A calm team spokesperson (usually the architect).

Construction checklist:

• Conditions of approval annotated on drawings.
• Mockups for masonry, siding, and trim.
• Staff sign-off on any substitutions.
• Photo log of key milestones.
• Final inspection scheduled early.

Frequently asked questions I get from clients

• How long will this take?
• For a typical addition, budget 6–12 weeks from submittal to COA. Add time for design and permits. Complex projects can take longer.
• Can I replace my windows with vinyl to save money?
• On contributing façades, almost never approved. Repair originals or use compatible wood/clad units. Vinyl may be acceptable on rear elevations in some cases.
• Do interiors matter?
• Usually not for single-family homes unless specifically designated, but interiors can matter for some landmarks and for commercial/assembly occupancies. Check your designation.
• If my property is on the National Register, do I automatically need approvals?
• Not necessarily; local designation triggers approvals. National Register matters for tax credits and federal reviews.
• What if I discover hidden damage during construction?
• Document with photos and an engineer’s note, then contact staff. Most will approve in-field adjustments administratively if the intent is preserved.

A few personal lessons learned the hard way

• Show your work. Commissions appreciate seeing the thought process—why you kept certain features and what you changed. A one-page “before/after rationale” dampens criticism.
• Don’t overpromise to neighbors. Be honest about construction impacts and what you can control. Credibility matters when you return for revisions.
• Materials matter more than renders. Sleek visuals help, but a correct brick, right mortar tooling, and authentic trim profiles are what win final approvals.
• Put your money where the commission looks. Front and side elevations visible from public ways get the time and budget. Save experimental details for the rear.
• Build trust with staff. A quick phone call when you hit a field surprise keeps your project out of trouble.

Wrapping it up: your approvals game plan

Getting historic approvals isn’t about memorizing obscure rules; it’s about respect—respecting the character that made the place historic in the first place and aligning your goals with that story. Do your homework, design with compatibility in mind, and collaborate with the commission staff. If you build a thoughtful case with clear visuals, realistic concessions, and the right team, you can secure approvals faster than most people expect—and end up with a project that feels right at home on its street.

For deeper dives, bookmark these resources:

• Secretary of the Interior’s Standards for Rehabilitation (National Park Service)
• NPS Preservation Briefs (practical, material-specific guides)
• Your city’s historic district design guidelines and pattern books
• Your State Historic Preservation Office (SHPO) website for tax credits and technical guidance

And if you take one thing from all of this: get that early meeting with staff. It’s the single best way to turn a potentially painful process into a smooth one.