How to Pass Your Final Home Inspection on the First Try

You’ve made it to the finish line. The walls are painted, the appliances are in, and the last truck just pulled away. Now comes the moment that makes every builder, GC, and homeowner hold their breath: the final inspection. I’ve shepherded dozens of homes through this day, from compact infill builds to large custom projects. The difference between a smooth sign-off and a maddening re-inspection usually comes down to preparation and a smart game plan. Let’s walk through exactly how to pass your final inspection on the first try—with the same checklist my teams use in the field.

What a Final Inspection Actually Is (and Isn’t)

Final inspection is the local authority having jurisdiction (AHJ)—usually your city or county building department—verifying that the home is safe, code-compliant, and ready to occupy. It’s the inspection that releases your Certificate Of Occupancy (CO) or the equivalent letter of completion.

A few things inspectors are—and are not—doing:

• They are checking health, safety, and minimum code standards, not evaluating your finishes.
• They are looking at systems working together: electrical, plumbing, mechanical, life safety, fire separation, energy compliance, and site drainage.
• They are not grading your paint cut lines or your cabinet reveals.
• They will verify paperwork: energy certificates, special inspections, backflow tests, truss engineering, and similar documents.

Most jurisdictions follow the International Residential Code (IRC), National Electrical Code (NEC), International Mechanical Code (IMC), and local amendments. The exact rules vary, but the themes are the same: life safety and habitability.

Why First-Time Passes Matter (More Than You Think)

Every failed final costs money and momentum. On projects I’ve led, we tracked the hidden costs for a single re-inspection:

• Re-inspection fee: $50–$250 depending on jurisdiction.
• Schedule delay: 2–7 days average to get back on the calendar.
• Carrying costs: interest, insurance, and overhead—often $200–$600 per day on a typical spec home.
• Trade remobilization: $100–$400 in minimum trip charges.
• Missed move-in dates and unhappy clients.

When we started treating final inspection like a deliverable with its own scope, our first-pass rate moved from the low 60s to the mid-90s. The playbook below is the difference-maker.

The Inspector’s Priorities: Safety, Systems, and Documentation

Here’s what’s top-of-mind for inspectors, across thousands of walk-throughs:

• Life safety: smoke/CO alarms, egress, guards and handrails, tempered glass, fire separation from garage, range anti-tip brackets, GFCI/AFCI protection.
• Electrical: panel labeling, grounding and bonding, required receptacle spacing, GFCI/AFCI, working clearances, exterior lighting.
• Plumbing: TPR discharge on water heaters, accessible shutoffs, proper traps and vents, dishwasher air gap or high-loop, backflow prevention where required.
• Mechanical/HVAC: disconnects, service clearances, condensate disposal and overflow protection, combustion air for gas appliances, duct and envelope certificates.
• Energy: insulation certificates, blower door and duct leakage results (if applicable), attic hatch insulation, weatherstripping and air sealing.
• Site: address numbers visible, grading slopes away from foundation, safe steps and landings, guardrails, downspout discharge.
• Paperwork: truss/engineering letters, special inspections, termite certificate (in certain regions), backflow test, gas tag, REScheck or energy forms, as-builts for septic/well systems, fire sprinkler sign-off if present.

Timeline: When to Schedule Final (and When Not To)

Don’t schedule final the day you think you’re done. Schedule it after you’re sure you’re done. My rule of thumb:

• T-minus 7–10 days: All rough and partial finals complete, punch-list largely finished, all equipment set and operational, inspections on specialty systems completed (sprinklers, wells, septic, solar).
• T-minus 5–7 days: Pre-final QA inspection by someone other than the primary superintendent. Many builders hire an independent inspector or commissioning agent for $300–$800. Worth every dollar.
• T-minus 2 days: The “48-hour scrub” (details below). All utilities on and stable for 24+ hours, HVAC running, water heater hot, appliances powered.
• T-minus 1 day: Touch-ups, deep clean, driveway swept, clear access to everything. Print the paperwork packet. Confirm inspection time and access instructions.

The 48-Hour Scrub: A Focused Walk That Catches 80% of Fails

Grab a clipboard, a step ladder, a voltage tester, a GFCI tester, a torpedo level, a flashlight, a tape measure, a camera phone, a bucket of water, and a roll of blue tape. Then hit every room and system with intent.

Here’s the short list I’ve used for years (expand it to fit your code cycle and local amendments):

• Smoke and CO alarms: installed, hardwired with battery backup, interconnected, one in each bedroom, one outside each sleeping area, and one per floor. Test every unit.
• GFCI/AFCI: test outlets in kitchen, baths, laundry, garage, exterior, and within 6 feet of sinks. Confirm AFCI breakers protect required circuits (typically bedrooms and all habitable rooms in newer code cycles).
• Egress: at least one egress door; bedroom egress windows clear and operable; emergency escape ladders from deep window wells installed if required.
• Handrails and guards: handrails 34–38 inches above stair nosing, continuous, graspable; guards 36 inches minimum high, with no 4-inch sphere passing through balusters (4-3/8 inch allowed on stair guards in many codes).
• Stairs: risers consistent, treads consistent, nosing uniform, solid landings, lighting at top and bottom.
• Electrical panel: all breakers labeled legibly, deadfront installed, torque marks on lugs if your jurisdiction requires, panel bonding/grounding verified (neutrals isolated in subpanels).
• Receptacle spacing: no point along walls farther than 6 feet from a receptacle, and at least every 12 feet along walls over 2 feet wide. Hallways >10 feet require at least one receptacle.
• Tamper-resistant receptacles: check in all required locations (virtually everywhere accessible).
• Bathroom fans: run quiet and exhaust outside, not into attic; verify dampers open and close.
• Kitchen: range anti-tip bracket installed and engaged; GFCI protection at countertop circuits; dishwasher air gap or high loop per local requirement; range hood or microwave vented properly with backdraft damper.
• Water heater: TPR valve with 3/4-inch discharge pipe to within 6 inches of floor, terminating by gravity, no threads at end; seismic strapping where required; pan with drain if located over finished space; combustion air if gas; gas sediment trap; accessible shutoff.
• Plumbing fixtures: no leaks; traps installed; caulked at walls and floors; proper clearances around toilets (15 inches to center from side walls, 24 inches clear in front).
• Sinks and tub spouts: hot on left, cold on right; vacuum breakers where needed; accessible cleanouts.
• Gas system: shutoffs at each appliance; CSST bonding present if used (often #6 copper to service ground); pressure tag if your jurisdiction requires.
• HVAC: condenser disconnect within sight; furnace/air handler service light and outlet in attic or crawl space; secondary drain pan or float switch for coils over living space; filter accessible; duct connections sealed; refrigerant line insulation intact and UV-rated outside.
• Attic/crawl: insulation installed to correct R-values; insulation card posted; baffles at soffits; attic hatch insulated and weatherstripped; crawlspace vapor barrier installed and sealed.
• Doors: self-closing hinges on the door between garage and house if required locally; proper weatherstripping on exterior doors; thresholds secure.
• Glazing: tempered glass at tubs/showers, within 24 inches of doors, at large panes near floor per code; safety labels visible.
• Garage: GFCI outlets; no ignition sources within 18 inches of garage floor for open-ignition appliances; drywall fire separation where required (typically 1/2-inch on walls, 5/8-inch Type X at ceilings under habitable space).
• Exterior: address numbers 4 inches high, contrasting and visible from street; grade slopes away from foundation (6 inches drop in first 10 feet is typical); downspouts discharge away from house; handrails on exterior steps; exterior lights at egress doors; GFCI and in-use covers on exterior outlets.
• Site safety: final steps/stoops secure and complete (no temporary treads for final); guardrails at elevated decks and porches; final grade safe and free of trip hazards.
• Fireplace: gas shutoff accessible; glass barrier in place per manufacturer; clearance labels intact; termination caps installed correctly.
• Dryer: vent duct smooth metal, under maximum footage allowance, with backdraft damper at exterior, labeled transition connector—no screws protruding into airflow.
• Final clean: no debris in mechanical rooms or near panels; clear 30-inch by 36-inch working space at electrical equipment.
• Security and access: attic and crawl hatches accessible; mechanical rooms unlocked; pets secured; ladders ready if needed.

I’ve watched inspectors fail homes for missing $3 parts—an anti-tip bracket, a missing dishwasher air gap in a “required” jurisdiction, or a TPR discharge stubbed with threads. This list is designed to catch those low-cost, high-impact items.

Trade-by-Trade Deep Dive

Electrical

• Panel and labeling:
• Every breaker labeled with a durable, legible description (not “misc”).
• No double-lugged neutrals; one neutral per terminal on most modern bars.
• Neutrals isolated in subpanels, grounds bonded.
• Working clearance in front of the panel: typically 30 inches wide and 36 inches deep, floor to ceiling clear.

• Protection devices:
• GFCI where required: kitchens, bathrooms, laundry areas, garages, basements, outdoors, and within 6 feet of sinks or wet bars (jurisdiction-specific).
• AFCI in habitable rooms: bedrooms, living rooms, dining rooms, hallways, closets, and more in recent code cycles.
• Combination devices (dual-function AFCI/GFCI) where circuits require both.

• Receptacle and lighting checks:
• Tamper-resistant receptacles throughout.
• Receptacle spacing: the “6/12 rule” for walls; islands/peninsulas have their own rules.
• Hallways over 10 feet long: at least one receptacle.
• Stair illumination: lights switched at top and bottom of stairs.
• Exterior: in-use covers at wet locations, GFCI-protected, weather-rated fixtures and boxes.

Common fails and quick fixes:

• Missing or mislabeled breakers: print a clean panel schedule before the inspection.
• GFCI/AFCI not tripping correctly: replace the device or breaker before the inspector arrives.
• Loose fixtures or exposed conductors in attic/crawl: secure with staples and proper connectors.

Plumbing

• Water heater:
• TPR discharge terminates within 6 inches of floor by gravity; no valves or tees.
• Seismic strapping as required (often two straps, upper and lower third).
• Pan and drain if located over finished space.
• Gas appliances: sediment trap, shutoff valve within reach, proper venting with rise and termination clearances.

• Fixtures and drainage:
• All traps are P-traps—no S-traps.
• Vents present and not concealed improperly; island vents properly looped if used.
• Toilets secure (no rocking), bolts capped, wax ring sealed.
• Dishwasher air gap or high loop per local code; some areas require air gaps outright.
• Backflow prevention where required—for irrigation, boiler, or potable water make-up lines.

• Water pressure and temperature:
• Static pressure ideally 40–80 psi; a PRV if above that.
• Hot water delivered within a reasonable time; temperature-limiting devices at showers (scald protection).

Common fails and quick fixes:

• TPR line threaded at the end: cut back and re-terminate plain.
• Missing dishwasher air gap in a jurisdiction that requires it: install a counter-mounted air gap.
• Loose supply lines under sinks: tighten and check for drips.
• Missing or buried cleanouts: expose or add as needed before inspection day.

Mechanical/HVAC

• Equipment and access:
• Attic equipment has a minimum 30-inch by 30-inch service platform, a light, and a receptacle within reach.
• Clear path to equipment: sturdy permanent walkway if required by local code for attic installations.
• Exterior units: adequate clearance around condensers, disconnect within sight and properly mounted.

• Condensate management:
• Primary drain pitched to drain; secondary pan with separate drain line or a float switch (some jurisdictions require both).
• Trap and vents per manufacturer on condensing equipment.

• Combustion and ventilation:
• Gas furnaces: combustion air sizing; vent terminations clear of openings and grade.
• Bath fans exhaust outdoors; kitchen hoods vent properly or use approved recirculating units if permitted.

• Duct and envelope:
• Duct sealing at joints and boots; mastic or UL-listed tape.
• Duct leakage and blower door results documented if required by energy code.

Common fails and quick fixes:

• Missing secondary drain protection: add a float switch quick.
• No service light/outlet in attic: have an electrician add before inspection day.
• Flexible dryer ducts concealed in walls: replace with smooth-walled metal.

Life Safety and Fire Separation

• Smoke and CO alarms:
• Locations: inside each bedroom, outside sleeping areas, and at each level. CO outside sleeping areas and on each floor for homes with fuel-burning appliances or attached garages.
• Interconnected and hardwired with battery backup.

• Garage separation:
• Gypsum board: 1/2-inch on walls common to the house; 5/8-inch Type X on ceilings under habitable space (check your local amendments).
• Self-closing, self-latching garage-to-house door where required—frequently enforced even if not spelled out in the IRC due to local amendments.
• No openings from garage directly into sleeping rooms.

• Glazing:
• Tempered near doors, within 60 inches of wet locations (tubs/showers), near stairs, and large low windows per code.
• Tempered glass etching visible.

• Egress:
• One egress door operational without key or tool.
• Bedrooms: emergency egress windows or doors meeting clear opening requirements.

Common fails and quick fixes:

• Missing self-closer on the garage door: add spring hinges.
• Smoke alarms not interlinked: pair them or replace with compatible units.
• Tempered glass mislabeled or missing: if caught late, work with the inspector—sometimes a field-applied film doesn’t qualify. Plan safety glazing early to avoid expensive glass swaps.

Exterior and Site

• Addressing: 4-inch-high numerals, contrasting color, visible from street. If home is set back, post numbers at road.
• Steps and landings: solid, level, non-slip treads. Landing at exterior doors typically 36 inches minimum in direction of travel (verify locally).
• Guards and handrails: heights and spacing per code; secure posts; no “climbable” balusters in jurisdictions that enforce it.
• Grading and drainage: 5% slope away for the first 10 feet; swales functional; downspouts discharge 5+ feet from foundation or to approved drains.
• Driveways and walks: finished and safe; no abrupt edges at entries.

Common fails and quick fixes:

• No exterior light at egress door: install fixture and switch promptly.
• Downspouts dumping at foundation: add extensions before the inspector arrives.
• Temporary steps: replace with permanent, code-compliant stairs for final.

Room-by-Room Pass Checklist

Sometimes walking room by room is the easiest way to catch misses.

Kitchen

• Two or more 20-amp small appliance circuits at countertops with GFCI protection.
• Receptacles within 2 feet of any point along countertop; islands and peninsulas serve surfaces with required outlets.
• Range anti-tip bracket engaged.
• Dishwasher air gap or high loop.
• Hood vented outdoors (if required) with a functioning backdraft damper; make-up air if your jurisdiction requires it for higher CFM hoods.
• Shutoffs for sink, dishwasher, and fridge accessible.

Bathrooms

• GFCI receptacles; switch locations safe.
• Exhaust fan vented outdoors; timed/controlled to actually get used (inspectors love when humidity sensors are set up correctly).
• Fixtures caulked neatly; toilet rock-solid; shutoffs present.

Bedrooms

• Smoke alarms installed and working.
• AFCI protection for outlets and lighting.
• Egress window operable with clear opening and no obstructing well cover.

Hallways and Stairs

• Handrail continuous and graspable; returns to wall.
• Stair geometry consistent; lights at top and bottom.
• Hallway receptacle if over 10 feet.

Laundry/Mudroom

• GFCI protection for receptacles.
• Dryer vent properly installed to exterior with correct ducting.
• Washing machine box secured, shutoffs accessible.

Garage

• GFCI receptacles, including ceiling outlets for door openers if required.
• Fire separation intact; penetrations sealed.
• Door to house self-closing and sealed.

Attic/Crawl

• Access clear and safe.
• Insulation baffles and R-value achieved; insulation certificate posted.
• Vapor barrier installed where required; sump or drainage present if needed.

Paperwork Packet: What to Hand the Inspector

Even if your jurisdiction doesn’t require a binder, walking onto site with a clean, labeled packet sets the tone and solves problems fast. I include:

• Permit card with all prior inspections signed off.
• Manufacturer installations for any special systems the inspector might question (range hood, fireplace, water heater venting, stair component details).
• Truss/joist engineering letters and special inspection reports (if any).
• Energy compliance: REScheck/COMcheck or local forms, blower door and duct leakage reports, insulation certificate.
• Backflow preventer test results (for irrigation).
• Septic/well approvals if applicable.
• Gas tag/pressure test documentation.
• Fire sprinkler sign-off (NFPA 13D) if the home has sprinklers.
• Survey or site plan showing final grading and setbacks if enforcement is strict locally.
• Warranties and appliance lists (helps with model and clearance questions).

Digital copies are fine, but a printed set is cheap insurance if the inspector can’t get cell service or wants to mark something.

Common Mistakes That Trip Final Inspections

• Not having all utilities on. Inspectors can’t test what doesn’t run. You’ll get a fail or a partial.
• Scheduling final while punch is ongoing. Ladders, tools, and open junction boxes are a bad look.
• Doors locked and attic/crawl blocked. If the inspector can’t access it, it’s a fail or a return visit.
• Missing “small” safety parts. Range anti-tip brackets, in-use covers on exterior outlets, vacuum breakers, TPR termination—these are $5–$20 items that can tank your day.
• Poor labeling. A scribbled panel schedule looks like you don’t know what feeds what. Slow down and label cleanly.
• Energy documentation missing. Blower door and duct leakage results are required in many places; inspectors won’t “take your word for it.”
• Temporary stairs, rails, or steps. Inspectors want permanent, safe egress at final.

Real-World Scenarios

Case Study 1: The $3 part that cost a week

• Build: 2,600 sf custom, inspector flagged missing anti-tip bracket on range and a non-functioning GFCI by sink.
• Result: Fail for life safety and incomplete electrical. Re-inspection five days later (inspector’s schedule was packed).
• Cost: $80 re-inspection fee, $1,200 in lost time and carrying costs.
• Fix: Installed bracket in 10 minutes; replaced GFCI in 15 minutes. Both would have been caught by a 48-hour scrub.

Case Study 2: The garage separation gotcha

• Build: Spec home with room over garage. Drywall on garage ceiling was 1/2-inch board, not 5/8-inch Type X as required locally.
• Result: Fail. Required ceiling tear-off and replacement with Type X, plus taped joints and fire caulking at penetrations.
• Cost: $2,100 remediation and a two-week delay (drywall scheduling and repaint).
• Lesson: Confirm fire separation requirements early; they change between code cycles and jurisdictions.

Case Study 3: Energy green tag missing

• Build: Tight envelope home. Workmanship was great but the blower door test certificate wasn’t uploaded or printed.
• Result: Inspector couldn’t pass final without the document. The test existed, but the tech was off that day, and office couldn’t send before end-of-day.
• Cost: $50 re-inspection fee, three days lost.
• Solution: Keep a printed copy in your packet and email it to the inspector in advance when allowed.

Costs, Timeframes, and “What If” Planning

• Re-inspection fees: $50–$250 per visit. Some jurisdictions allow one free re-inspection; many don’t.
• Scheduling delays: 2–7 business days for re-inspections in busy seasons. Plan your move-in/closing date with a 7–10 day buffer beyond final inspection if you can.
• QA cost: independent pre-final walk $300–$800. It usually pays for itself the first time they catch a life-safety item.
• Contingency: budget $1,000–$3,000 and 1–2 weeks of float for late surprises if you’re building your first home. As your process matures, you’ll narrow that.

How to Host the Inspector

• Be ready 15 minutes early. All lights on, all doors unlocked, pets secured, ladders set at attic and crawl.
• Have one knowledgeable person walk with the inspector. Answer questions clearly, avoid arguing code on site, and take detailed notes on corrections.
• Bring tools: GFCI tester, voltage tick, flashlight, step ladder, small parts kit (extra GFCIs, receptacle covers, screws, blank plates, air gap, vacuum breakers, anti-tip bracket), and a sharpie.
• Be honest about open items. If a part is on backorder but the area is otherwise safe, ask whether a partial pass is possible. Some inspectors will note a minor deferred item if it doesn’t affect life safety.
• Ask for code references politely if you get an unexpected correction. Often it’s in your local amendment packet. Take notes; learn for next time.

Quick Wins the Day Before

I keep a “15-minute fixes” box in the truck:

• Anti-tip brackets (ranges).
• In-use covers for exterior outlets.
• GFCI receptacles.
• Tamper-resistant receptacles.
• Blank plates, screws, wire connectors.
• Door strike plates and shims.
• Smoke/CO alarms (battery backup) compatible with the existing network.
• Silicone, fire caulk, and mastic tape.
• Tubes of white and clear painter’s caulk for last-minute sealing.
• Vacuum breakers and hose bibb backflow devices.
• Water heater TPR fittings and 3/4-inch pipe sections.

You can solve 80% of last-minute issues on the spot with this box.

Energy and Mechanical Testing: Don’t Leave It for the Inspector

If your jurisdiction requires blower door and duct leakage tests:

• Schedule testing 3–7 days before final. If the home fails, you’ll still have time to seal and retest.
• Typical targets: 3–5 ACH50 depending on climate zone and code cycle; duct leakage often ≤4 cfm25 per 100 sf of conditioned floor area when tested at rough or final per many 2015–2018 IECC adoptions.
• Seal common leaks: attic hatches, top plates, plumbing and electrical penetrations, rim joists, and bath fan housings.
• Document results and post the insulation certificate in the attic.

When You Get a Correction Notice

Even with prep, you might get a few corrections. How you respond matters:

• Don’t argue. Confirm the list in writing with the inspector. Ask clarifying questions: “If we complete these three items, can you sign off without revisiting, or do you need to see them?”
• Fix safety issues first: anything life safety (smoke/CO, guards, GFCI/AFCI, egress) jumps to the top.
• Confirm re-inspection scheduling immediately. Some inspectors will accept photos for minor items; many won’t.
• Close the loop with documentation. If it involves engineering (truss repair) or energy code, update your packet.

Builder-Level Systems That Boost First-Pass Rates

• Pre-final checklists by trade: electrical, plumbing, HVAC, finish carpentry, exterior.
• Weekly coordination meeting for the last month: everyone knows the finish line items.
• Commissioning mindset: actually run HVAC, water heaters, dishwasher cycles, and bath fans before final. Don’t discover a reversed hot/cold during inspection.
• Document control: shared drive with labeled PDFs for permits, tests, engineering, and warranties. Printed packet on site.
• Mock inspection: have a superintendent from another job walk your house. Fresh eyes find things you’ve stopped seeing.

Local Amendment Watchouts

A few items that regularly change by jurisdiction:

• Self-closers on garage-to-house doors: many require them even if the base code doesn’t.
• Dishwasher air gaps: some regions insist on them; others accept a high loop.
• Stair geometry tolerances: some AHJs are stricter on tread/riser uniformity and nosing.
• Tempered glazing near the bottom edge height and size: requirements can vary.
• Guardrail design near climbing elements: some inspectors flag “ladder-effect” designs.
• Energy targets: code cycle and climate zone change ACH50 and duct leakage limits.

If you’re unsure, call your building department and ask for their residential final inspection checklist. Most have one. Work line-by-line from that document.

The Closeout Packet for Your Client

Passing inspection isn’t the end of the story. A solid handoff reduces call-backs and keeps everyone happy. Include:

• Appliance manuals and warranties.
• HVAC filter sizes and replacement schedule; location of shutoffs for water, gas, and electrical main.
• Water heater draining and TPR explanation.
• How to operate smoke and CO alarms; recommended replacement intervals.
• Paint colors and sheen schedule; tile and grout care.
• Landscape watering schedule and backflow device maintenance.
• Emergency contacts for trades during the warranty period.

Inspectors don’t grade you on this, but when you act like a pro, everyone’s stress level stays low.

A Step-by-Step Game Plan You Can Copy

1. Six weeks out: Confirm code cycle and local amendments; request the AHJ final inspection checklist. Start your document packet.
2. Two weeks out: Ensure rough corrections are closed. Schedule energy testing and any third-party inspections.
3. One week out: Independent pre-final QA walk. Fix everything on that list. Verify trades closed their punch.
4. Two days out: 48-hour scrub list. Utilities on, systems running, test all alarms, GFCI/AFCI, appliances, HVAC, water heater, and fans.
5. One day out: Complete minor fixes, deep clean, clear access, set ladders, print packet.
6. Inspection day: Host with one point person, tool kit in hand, and paperwork visible. Take notes on any corrections.
7. Post-inspection: Close corrections in order of safety and complexity. Schedule re-inspection if needed; send photos only if accepted.
8. CO received: Celebrate a bit, then document lessons learned to improve your checklist for the next build.

Frequently Asked “Should I” Questions

• Should I be present during the final inspection? Yes. Have one knowledgeable person available to answer questions and provide documents.
• Should I push for a partial pass if one or two items are minor? Ask. Many inspectors will allow a conditional sign-off when items aren’t life safety related. Don’t count on it.
• Can I schedule the final before landscaping is complete? Often yes, if grading/drainage and all egress paths are safe and complete. Confirm locally.
• The homeowner wants to move furniture in before final. Bad idea. Inspectors need clear access, and you risk damage or blocked pathways.
• Do I need a fire extinguisher? Not usually required by the IRC, but some local AHJs encourage or require one at the kitchen or garage. It’s a good practice anyway.

A Few Pro Tips from the Field

• Make the inspector’s job easy. Clear pathways, labeled panels, and visible compliance details change the entire tone of the visit.
• Put a temporary label on shutoffs: “Water main,” “Irrigation,” “Gas shutoff,” “Furnace disconnect.” It’s not a code requirement; it’s helpful and shows intent.
• Take photos of hidden assemblies before covering: fire blocking, draft stopping, shower pan liners, exterior flashing. If a question comes up, you’ve got proof.
• Don’t rely on caulk to solve structural or fire-rated issues. Use the right materials and methods for penetrations and fire separations.
• Keep spares of code-critical parts. Anti-tip brackets, GFCIs, smoke/CO combos, in-use covers, vacuum breakers—fast fixes that prevent fails.

The Mindset That Wins Final Inspections

The best projects pass final because the team treats life safety, documentation, and access with the same seriousness as tile layout or cabinet reveals. Inspectors are allies when you come prepared; they’re gatekeepers when you’re winging it. I’ve watched inspectors spend extra time helping a team that clearly did their homework, and I’ve watched those same inspectors red-tag homes with preventable misses.

If you use the 48-hour scrub checklist, set your paperwork in order, and host the inspection like a pro, you’ll stack the deck in your favor. More importantly, you’ll hand over a home that’s safe, durable, and ready for a family to move in without surprises. That’s the standard worth hitting every time.