Land Loans vs. Construction Loans: Sequencing, Refinancing, and Total Cost

Land Loans vs. Construction Loans: Sequencing, Refinancing, and Total Cost

If you’re trying to figure out how to finance a home you’ll build yourself, the terms get confusing fast. Do you get a land loan first? Can you roll that into a construction loan? Should you wait for a one-time-close that wraps everything together? And what’s the real cost once you add interest, closing fees, design, permits, and the “surprises” that always show up? I’ve guided dozens of clients through this exact maze—across rural acreage, infill lots, and master-planned communities—and the biggest wins come from sequencing your financing early, being brutally honest about carry costs, and building an airtight budget that covers soft costs and site work. Let’s break it down in plain English.

What You’re Actually Comparing

Land loans in a nutshell

A land loan helps you buy a parcel before you’re ready to build. Terms vary depending on the type of parcel:

  • Raw land (no utilities, roads, or grading): highest risk to lenders. Expect larger down payments (30–50%), higher rates, and shorter terms (often 3–10 years with a balloon).
  • Unimproved land (some access but not fully serviced): slightly easier, but still high down payment and higher rates.
  • Finished residential lot (utilities at or to the lot line, platted, road access): easiest to finance among land types. Down payment can be 20–30% with banks/credit unions.

Typical features you’ll see:

  • Rates: commonly 1.5–3.0 percentage points higher than a standard 30-year mortgage.
  • Down payment: 20–50% depending on land type and lender.
  • Term: often 10–20 years amortized with a 3–5 year balloon, or interest-only periods up front.
  • Portfolio lenders: Many land loans come from local banks, credit unions, or Farm Credit associations that keep loans on their own books.
  • Prepayment: Often no penalty for consumers, but always confirm.

When land loans make sense:

  • You found “the one” but you’re 6–18 months from final house plans.
  • The parcel is competitive and cash buyers are circling.
  • Your area has very few lenders offering true construction-to-permanent (C2P) loans that include the lot.

Construction loans in a nutshell

Construction loans finance the actual build. Two flavors dominate:

1) Stand-Alone Construction Loan (two closings)

  • You close on a construction loan now, then refinance into a permanent mortgage after the home is complete.
  • Pros: Often more lender options; sometimes lower up-front costs.
  • Cons: Two sets of closing costs; interest rate risk when you refinance; more paperwork.

2) Construction-to-permanent Loan (One-Time-Close or C2P)

  • One closing up front. During construction you pay interest-only on drawn funds; after completion it automatically converts to a permanent mortgage.
  • Pros: One set of closing costs; protects you from rate spikes mid-build; simpler.
  • Cons: Fewer lenders offer it; tighter guidelines; sometimes higher rates or more documentation.

What to expect:

  • Down payment: Typically 10–20% for conventional. FHA/VA/USDA programs may allow lower down (FHA as low as 3.5%, VA potentially 0% for eligible borrowers), though not all lenders offer these OTC programs.
  • Rates: Generally 0.75–2.0 percentage points higher than standard permanent mortgages while you’re in the build phase.
  • Term: 9–18 months of construction Interest-only payments is common; many lenders allow 12 months with the option to extend for a fee.
  • Draws: Money is released in stages (foundation, framing, mechanicals, drywall, finishes, final). Expect 5–10 draws and lender inspections.

Key underwriting concepts lenders use

  • Loan-to-Cost (LTC): Loan amount versus the total cost to build (land + hard + soft costs).
  • Loan-to-Value (LTV): Loan amount versus the appraised value “as completed.”
  • The lower of LTC or LTV usually governs your max loan amount.
  • Builder approval: Lenders often require a licensed, bonded GC with a track record. Owner-builder approvals are rare and come with stricter terms.
  • Contingency: Many lenders expect a 5–10% contingency in your budget.
  • Reserves and liquidity: It’s common to see a requirement for a few months of reserves and proof you can handle cost overruns.

Choosing a Sequence: Five Common Paths

Option A: Pay cash for the land, then use your land equity as your down payment

  • How it works: You purchase the land outright. When you apply for your C2P or construction loan later, the lender counts the appraised value of the land as equity.
  • Why it’s powerful: Avoids land loan interest and a second closing. Strengthens your financial position with the lender.
  • Watch-outs:
  • Seasoning: Some lenders use current appraised land value; others use the lower of appraised value or what you paid if you just bought it. Many want 6–12 months seasoning before giving full credit for appreciation.
  • Opportunity cost: Cash tied up in land can’t be used for design, deposits, or an emergency buffer.

Real example: A client bought a finished lot for $120,000 cash. Eight months later the land appraised at $145,000 due to a new school announcement. Their lender credited the full $145,000 toward equity because they met the seasoning requirement, effectively covering the entire down payment on a $650,000 build at 80% LTV.

Option B: Land loan now, refinance into a construction loan later

  • How it works: You finance the land with a 3–5 year balloon or interest-only period. When house plans, permits, and costs are ready, you refinance the land loan into a construction loan (stand-alone or C2P).
  • Pros: Secure the parcel early; spread out design costs; stay flexible on timing.
  • Cons: You’ll pay interest and closing costs on the land loan, and possibly a second round of closing costs later. Rate risk if you end up with a stand-alone construction then a separate permanent refinance.

Good fits:

  • Rural acreage or raw land with tricky approvals.
  • High-demand markets where lots disappear fast.
  • You need 6–12 months for architectural design and permitting.

Option C: One-time-close C2P that includes the lot purchase and the build

  • How it works: You close one loan that pays the seller for the lot and funds the build in draws. No land loan needed.
  • Pros: One set of closing costs; you lock your permanent mortgage terms up front. Cleanest from a paperwork and cost-control standpoint.
  • Cons: Requires a lender who offers it for your property type and loan size; seller timing must align (some sellers want short closings and you’ll need your plans and builder lined up).
  • Tip: If the lot is under contract, build your design and budget to “permit ready” as quickly as possible so your one-time-close doesn’t expire.

Option D: Use a HELOC/bridge loan against your current home to buy the land

  • How it works: You tap a home equity line or a bridge loan to pay cash for the land. Later you do a C2P and pay off the HELOC at conversion.
  • Pros: Avoids a land loan and its higher rate; lets you move fast on a parcel.
  • Cons: You’ve now got two properties to insure and pay taxes on; your debt-to-income (DTI) goes up; rates on HELOCs can be variable. If your current home doesn’t sell on your timeline, cash flow gets tight.
  • Pro move: Cap your HELOC draw to what you can comfortably carry for 18 months without selling your current home.

Option E: Seller financing on the land

  • How it works: The seller holds a note for 12–36 months while you design and permit. You pay interest and perhaps a balloon.
  • Pros: Fast closings, flexible terms, possibly lower down.
  • Cons: Balloon risk if your construction financing gets delayed; ensure the seller note can be paid off by the construction or perm loan (some lenders require the land to be free of junior liens).
  • Tip: Get an attorney to review the deed of trust and any subordination clauses.

Which Sequence Fits You?

  • You’re design-ready and your builder is selected: Push for a one-time-close C2P that includes the land purchase (Option C).
  • You found the perfect parcel but need 6–12 months for design: Land loan or HELOC route (Option B or D). Keep a tight carry-cost budget.
  • You have strong liquidity and want leverage later: Pay cash for land (Option A) and let it serve as equity.
  • The seller is flexible and you’re optimizing cash flow: Explore seller financing (Option E), but confirm it won’t block your construction lender.

How Lenders Calculate Your Maximum Loan

Lenders typically use “the lesser of” test:

  • Max based on LTV: Suppose your appraised as-completed value is $900,000 and the lender allows 85% LTV. Max loan by value = $765,000.
  • Max based on LTC: Suppose your total project cost (land + sitework + build + soft costs) is $850,000 and the lender allows 85% LTC. Max loan by cost = $722,500.
  • Your approved amount is often the lower number ($722,500 here).

Other key factors:

  • Credit score: Many lenders want 700+ for conventional C2P. Government-backed programs may go lower but expect overlays.
  • DTI: Often capped around 43–45% for qualified mortgages; portfolio lenders may allow more.
  • Reserves: 3–12 months of total housing payments is common, especially for jumbos.
  • Builder approval: Lender reviews license, insurance, financial strength, and past projects.
  • Appraisal: Must include plans, specs, and a detailed cost breakdown. Unique or remote properties can make comps tough; appraisers may use cost approach plus sparse comparables.

Refinancing Mechanics: Land to Construction to Permanent

Rolling a land loan into a construction loan

  • Appraisal: The appraiser values the future home based on your plans, specs, and site. Your land’s equity (appraised value or recent verified price) contributes to your down payment.
  • Seasoning rules:
  • Some lenders credit the current appraised land value immediately.
  • Others use “cost basis” if you acquired the land recently (e.g., last 6–12 months), which can be less favorable if the land appreciated.
  • Payoff: At construction closing, your new loan pays off the land loan. Any leftover equity reduces your required cash in.

Example:

  • Land purchased for $150,000 10 months ago; appraised today at $165,000.
  • Build cost: $600,000. Total project cost: $750,000.
  • Lender allows 85% of the lower of cost or appraised value.
  • If appraised as-completed value is $800,000:
  • 85% of cost = $637,500
  • 85% of value = $680,000
  • Limit: $637,500
  • If you still owe $110,000 on the land loan, the construction closing pays that off. Your required cash to close is total costs minus loan proceeds minus land equity net of payoff.

Converting a construction loan to permanent financing

  • One-time-close: Conversion happens automatically when the Certificate Of Occupancy (CO) is issued and all title requirements are satisfied. The permanent rate and terms are already locked (subject to your program).
  • Stand-alone: You apply for a new permanent mortgage. You’re exposed to market rates at that time. If rates improved, you might win; if they rose, your payment goes up.
  • Rate locks: Some lenders offer extended locks for C2P or the option to “float down” if market rates improve before conversion. Extended locks can carry fees.

PMI, MIP, and Funding Fees

  • Conventional PMI: Required if LTV > 80%. Construction loans follow the same rule once you convert to the permanent loan.
  • FHA: Upfront mortgage insurance premium (UFMIP) and monthly MIP apply to FHA C2P. Requires less down but includes ongoing mortgage insurance.
  • VA: Eligible borrowers may finance up to 100% with a funding fee (waived for certain disability ratings). Not all lenders offer VA C2P, so shop around.

The Real All-In Cost: What Most People Miss

Think beyond “purchase price plus build cost.” Here’s what to budget:

  • Interest carry:
  • Land loan or HELOC interest during the hold.
  • Construction draw interest during the build (interest accrues only on funds drawn).
  • Closing costs:
  • Origination and underwriting: 0.5–1.5% of loan amount, sometimes split between construction and permanent if stand-alone.
  • Appraisals: $700–$1,500+ for construction appraisals with plans review.
  • Title and escrow: $1,500–$4,000+, plus title updates for each draw ($50–$150 per draw).
  • Recording fees and taxes: Highly local; plan a few hundred to a few thousand dollars.
  • Draw/inspection fees: $100–$300 per draw; budget for 6–10 draws.
  • Survey: $800–$2,500+ depending on size and complexity; additional for elevation certificates in flood zones.
  • Insurance:
  • Builder’s risk or course-of-construction: Often $1,000–$3,000 depending on project size, location, and duration.
  • General liability (builder) and homeowners policy conversion upon CO.
  • Flood insurance if required.
  • Soft costs:
  • Architecture: 3–10% of build cost for full-service architects; less if using a draftsperson or modified stock plans.
  • Engineering: Structural, truss, energy calcs: $2,000–$15,000+.
  • Permits and impact/tap fees: Can range from a few thousand to $40,000+ in high-fee jurisdictions.
  • Soil tests and geotech: $1,500–$6,000+ depending on site.
  • Septic and well: $10,000–$60,000 combined depending on depth, soil, and capacity.
  • Driveway, clearing, grading, erosion control: $5,000–$60,000+ depending on terrain and access.
  • Contingency:
  • 5–10% of hard costs is smart; more if your site is complex or design is custom.
  • Taxes and HOA:
  • Property taxes on the land and improvements as they progress; prorations at closing.
  • HOA architectural review fees and deposits; sometimes refundable, sometimes not.
  • Temporary housing:
  • Rent or carrying your existing mortgage while you build. Budget the overlap.

A Simple Way to Approximate Construction Interest

  • If your build draws are fairly linear over 10 months, your average outstanding balance is roughly 50% of the total construction funds for about half the build duration. Example:
  • Construction funds: $600,000
  • Average outstanding over 10 months: ~ $300,000
  • Interest rate during construction: 8.5%
  • Monthly interest: $300,000 × 8.5% / 12 ≈ $2,125
  • Over 10 months: ~$21,250

This back-of-the-envelope number gets you in the ballpark. Actual draw timing alters the total.

Three Scenario Walkthroughs with Real Numbers

For illustration only. Rates and fees vary by market and borrower profile.

Scenario 1: Land loan first, then C2P

  • Land purchase price: $150,000
  • Down payment: 25% ($37,500)
  • Land loan: $112,500 at 10% interest-only
  • Holding period: 18 months

Land-carry interest:

  • Monthly: $112,500 × 10% / 12 ≈ $937.50
  • Over 18 months: $16,875

Soft costs during hold:

  • Architect: $22,000 (full-service schematic through permit)
  • Engineering: $6,000
  • Permits/impact/taps: $18,000
  • Survey + geotech: $3,500

Subtotal soft costs: $49,500

Now the build:

  • Build hard costs: $600,000
  • Contingency: 7% ($42,000)
  • Total project cost: $150,000 + $600,000 + $42,000 + $49,500 = $841,500

C2P loan:

  • Lender allows 85% of lesser of cost or value
  • Appraised as-completed value: $900,000
  • 85% of cost: $715,275; 85% of value: $765,000; limit is $715,275

Cash/equity at close:

  • Land equity: $150,000 value minus $112,500 loan payoff = $37,500 equity
  • Required cash to close: Total cost ($841,500) – C2P loan ($715,275) – land equity ($37,500) = $88,725
  • Add closing costs (origination 1% on $715,275 ≈ $7,153), appraisal/title/draw fees (~$4,000), builder’s risk ($1,800): ~$12,953 in transaction costs

Construction interest (10 months, avg outstanding ~$300,000 at 8.75%):

  • Approx monthly: $300,000 × 8.75% / 12 ≈ $2,187
  • ~ $21,870 total

Total financing-related costs to budget:

  • Land interest: $16,875
  • C2P interest: ~$21,870
  • Closing/transaction costs (land loan closing $3,000 + C2P $12,953): ~$15,953

Rough subtotal: ~$54,698, excluding standard prepaid items and taxes.

Observation: The second closing adds cost but gave you time to design and permit without pressure.

Scenario 2: One-time-close that purchases the lot and funds the build

  • Lot price: $180,000
  • Build budget: $620,000
  • Contingency: 8% ($49,600)
  • Total cost: $849,600
  • Lender allows 85% C2P; appraised value matches cost ($850,000 rounded)

Loan:

  • 85% × $849,600 ≈ $722,160
  • Cash to close: $127,440 plus closing costs

Closing costs:

  • Origination 1%: ~$7,222
  • Appraisal/title/escrow/draw fees: ~$4,500
  • Builder’s risk: $2,000
  • Prepaids/escrows vary; assume ~$3,000 for estimate

Total transaction costs: ~$16,722

Construction interest (11 months; avg outstanding ~$335,000 at 8.25%):

  • Monthly: ~$2,303; total ≈ $25,333

Since there’s no separate land loan, you avoided that extra interest and fee set. The tradeoff is you needed plans, specs, and a builder upfront to close on the C2P.

Scenario 3: Cash land purchase used as equity

  • Land paid cash at $120,000 a year ago; current appraised land value $135,000
  • Build cost: $690,000
  • Contingency: 6% ($41,400)
  • Total project cost: $120,000 + $690,000 + $41,400 = $851,400

Lender allows 85% of cost or value:

  • Appraised as-completed: $900,000
  • 85% of cost: $723,690; 85% of value: $765,000
  • Loan limit: $723,690

Cash to close:

  • Total cost ($851,400) – loan ($723,690) – land equity credited ($135,000) = negative number (overfunded by $7,290)
  • In practice, the loan will be sized down or contingency adjusted; the borrower may bring little to no additional cash beyond closing costs.

Transaction costs and interest:

  • C2P closing costs: ~$12,000–$16,000
  • Construction interest (10 months, avg $310,000 at 8.5%): ~$21,958

This path often feels best because the land equity functions like your down payment.

Timelines That Keep You Sane (and Funded)

A realistic custom-home timeline looks like this:

  • Land search and due diligence: 1–6 months
  • Design and engineering: 2–6 months (custom)
  • Permitting: 1–4 months, longer in coastal or urban areas
  • Construction: 8–14 months for most custom homes; production/semi-custom can be 6–10 months
  • Total: 12–24 months from lot hunting to move-in

How this interacts with loans:

  • Land loan balloons often hit 36–60 months. If your market is slow to permit, give yourself buffer.
  • C2P rate locks: Some lenders offer extended locks (e.g., up to 12 months) with add-on fees. If you expect long permitting, compare lock costs vs. rate risk.
  • Draw periods: Confirm the allowed construction period and extension fees. A 12-month build with a 3-month extension option is common.

Step-by-Step Plan to Nail the Sequencing

1) Set a top-line “all-in” budget

  • Include land, build, soft costs, sitework, contingency, and carry costs. Your “all-in” number is the only number that matters.

2) Get pre-qualified with two lender types

  • A local portfolio bank/credit union and a regional/national mortgage lender that offers C2P. Ask both about:
  • Max LTV/LTC
  • One-time-close availability
  • Builder approval criteria
  • Extended rate lock and Float-down options
  • How they credit land equity and any seasoning rules

3) Shop land with a due diligence checklist

  • Confirm zoning, setbacks, easements, and deed restrictions.
  • Verify utilities: water, sewer or septic, power, gas, internet. Get tap fees and lead times in writing.
  • Order preliminary title, survey, and soil test if feasible within the option period.
  • Ballpark sitework costs: driveway length, grading cuts/fills, retaining, erosion control, tree clearing. These swing budgets by tens of thousands.

4) Decide your sequence

  • If you have complete plans and a builder, push for one-time-close. If not, go land loan or HELOC, but schedule your design and budgeting aggressively to minimize carry time.

5) Lock in the team

  • Architect/designer, general contractor, lender, and title company. Get a fixed bid or a guaranteed maximum price (GMP) if possible, with allowances detailed.

6) Build a detailed cost breakdown

  • Hard costs by trade, soft costs line by line, sitework as a standalone section, and a contingency of 5–10%. Lenders want this breakdown.

7) Appraisal package

  • Complete plans, specs book, cost breakdown, site plan, and survey. The cleaner the package, the faster the appraisal and the better chance you have to avoid value disputes.

8) Close the loan

  • For C2P, you’ll sign construction riders and the permanent mortgage terms. For stand-alone, you’ll close on the construction loan first.

9) Manage draws like a hawk

  • Require lien waivers from subs; confirm inspections are scheduled promptly; keep a clean draw schedule to limit interest. Avoid front-loading draws—it increases your carry.

10) Track changes in real time

  • Create a simple log for change orders, cost impacts, and contingency balance. Weekly updates with your builder keep surprises at bay.

11) Inspections and punch list

  • Expect lender inspections for draws and municipal inspections for code. Plan for a 1–3% final “closeout” cash cushion to handle last-minute items.

12) Conversion and move-in

  • Provide the certificate of occupancy, final title update, and insurance changeover. Double-check escrow setup for taxes and insurance on the permanent loan.

Common Mistakes That Blow Budgets

  • Ignoring site costs: I’ve seen a $20,000 grading estimate turn into $70,000 because we discovered unsuitable soils after the first rains. Always get a geotech report early and include a sitework contingency.
  • Incomplete design at appraisal: If cabinets, counters, windows, and roof specs are “TBD,” appraisers may assume mid-grade or conservative allowances, lowering the appraised value.
  • Overlooking utility lead times: A six-month delay on a power transformer can extend your construction loan and add thousands in interest and extension fees.
  • Counting on unseasoned land appreciation: Some lenders won’t credit increased land value without seasoning. If you bought a lot last month, don’t assume the appraisal bump translates to usable equity.
  • Skipping a contingency: If you don’t have at least 5–10% set aside, the first change order or code-required upgrade will be painful.
  • Ignoring temporary housing: You might pay rent and construction interest at the same time. Model this double-carry into your budget.
  • Choosing the wrong loan for the market: If rates feel like they might rise during your build, a one-time-close with a long lock can be cheaper in the end than playing the market.
  • Owner-builder assumptions: Most lenders won’t allow you to GC your own home unless you’re a licensed builder with a portfolio. Even then, expect lower LTV and more scrutiny.

Pro Tips from the Field

  • Get contractor bids that call out allowances clearly: Lighting, appliances, tile, and landscaping allowances can swing six figures in luxury builds. Nail them down early.
  • Ask your lender for a sample draw schedule and fee list: Title update fees, inspection fees, and wire charges add up. Bake them into the pro forma.
  • Consider a rate cap or float-down: If your lender offers a float-down for a fee and you can afford it, it’s a smart hedge in volatile markets.
  • Lock your utilities early: Pay tap fees and request service dates as soon as your permit is issued. Utility departments are often your slowest vendors.
  • Treat change orders like a root canal: Painful and expensive. Lock in selections ahead of time and say no to scope creep unless you can cut elsewhere.
  • Insurance coordination: Builder’s risk typically converts to a homeowner’s policy at CO. Don’t let a gap occur—lenders require continuous coverage.

Special Cases: Government-Backed and Jumbo

  • FHA One-Time Close: Lower down payment, but MIP applies. Some lenders limit loan sizes or geographic areas.
  • VA One-Time Close: Excellent for eligible veterans; not all lenders offer it. Funding fees apply unless exempt.
  • USDA: Limited to eligible rural areas and income caps; some lenders offer construction programs.
  • Jumbo C2P: Available through select lenders; expect stricter reserves, lower max LTV (sometimes 70–80%), and higher rates.

If your build budget edges into jumbo territory, involve your lender early. Jumbo C2P underwriting can take longer and requires more documentation of assets and reserves.

Investment and Spec Builds

  • Down payment: Often 25–35% or more for investor construction loans.
  • DSCR or global DTI: Some lenders underwrite based on projected rent once complete; others look at global cash flow.
  • Entity ownership: Many investor loans close in an LLC with personal guarantees.
  • Exit plan: Lenders will ask whether you’ll sell or refi to a DSCR/agency loan at completion.

If you’re building to sell, build your financing timeline around marketing and absorption. A slow sale means extra months of interest and taxes.

Rate Strategy and Points: What Actually Saves Money

  • Buying down the permanent rate with points can make sense if:
  • You’ll keep the home long enough to hit the breakeven (total points paid divided by monthly savings).
  • You’re using C2P so the bought-down rate is guaranteed at conversion.
  • Be selective about buying down the short-term construction rate. Since interest accrues only on drawn funds for a limited period, points rarely pencil out for the construction phase alone.
  • Example:
  • Option A: 6.875% 30-year fixed at $0 points.
  • Option B: 6.375% at 1 point on a $700,000 permanent loan ($7,000 cost).
  • Monthly savings roughly $220–$260 depending on taxes/insurance.
  • Breakeven ~ 27–32 months. If you’ll stay longer, buying down may be worth it.

Taxes and Deductibility (Talk to Your CPA)

  • Mortgage interest on a construction loan used to build your primary residence can be treated as home acquisition debt for up to 24 months while you build, potentially making the interest deductible within IRS limits.
  • Property taxes are generally deductible (subject to SALT caps). Construction-related sales taxes on materials are not typically deductible for homeowners.
  • If you roll closing costs into the loan, most are not immediately deductible but may affect basis. Keep good records.

Appraisal and Value Risks

  • Thin comps: Rural or unique designs can cause low appraisals. Mitigation:
  • Provide the appraiser with market data, builder comps, and cost detail.
  • Keep design within the “value band” of the neighborhood.
  • Over-building: A $1.4M house in an $800k neighborhood is likely to appraise low. The bank lends on the lower of LTC or LTV; you’ll pay the difference.

If the appraisal comes in low:

  • Adjust finishes/allowances and resubmit.
  • Add cash to close.
  • Value challenge through the lender’s reconsideration of value process (results vary).
  • Shop another lender/appraiser if time allows.

What Lender Type Is Best?

  • Local banks/credit unions: Great for land loans and C2P in their footprint. They know local appraisers and permitting quirks.
  • Regional/national mortgage lenders: Often better for complex C2P, jumbo options, and longer rate locks, but may not touch raw land.
  • Farm Credit: Strong option for acreage and ag-adjacent properties; terms can be flexible but may require membership and have unique underwriting.

Interview at least two. Ask for:

  • A full fee worksheet
  • A sample draw schedule
  • Written guidelines for land equity credit and seasoning
  • Extension fees and lock options
  • Builder approval checklist

Quick FAQs

  • Can I be my own general contractor?
  • Usually no, unless you’re licensed with a verifiable track record. Those that allow it will lower LTV and add requirements.
  • What happens if my build takes longer than the loan term?
  • You’ll request an extension. Expect a fee (flat or percentage) and possibly a rate bump. Communicate early.
  • Can I refinance mid-construction to a better deal?
  • Rare and difficult. Most lenders won’t take over a partially built project. Better to negotiate float-downs or rate options up front.
  • Will my land equity cover my down payment?
  • Often yes, if the equity is documented and the lender credits appraised value. Seasoning rules apply by lender and program.
  • What if costs run over?
  • You cover them with cash, approved contingency, or a reallocation within allowances. The loan rarely increases mid-build unless you re-underwrite and re-appraise.

Putting It All Together: A Practical Decision Framework

1) If you have your plans, builder, and budget dialed in, and the seller can wait for a single closing: aim for a one-time-close C2P that purchases the lot and funds the build. It’s the cleanest, often the cheapest, and locks your long-term rate.

2) If the land is perfect but you need time to design and permit, or your builder is not yet selected: grab the lot with a land loan or HELOC and set calendar targets for design milestones. Keep your land-carry period as short as possible.

3) If you have plenty of cash and want maximum leverage later: pay cash for the lot. Use the land equity to satisfy the down payment requirement at C2P closing.

4) In volatile rate markets: prioritize C2P with extended lock options, even if it’s slightly pricier at the front end. Paying an extra half-point in origination can be cheaper than a full percentage point increase in your permanent rate.

5) On unique or rural builds: err on the side of conservative appraisal assumptions. Provide a thorough package to the appraiser and don’t assume your dream design will automatically justify top-of-market value.

A Final Word From the Trenches

The most successful custom builds I’ve seen start with a single spreadsheet that includes every dollar: land, tap fees, design, surveys, soils, driveway, rock excavation, contingency, interest carry, and two full sets of closing costs if you’re doing stand-alone. Then we test financing paths against that same sheet and pressure-test the timeline. That’s how you avoid the “death by a thousand cuts” that derails so many projects.

If you take nothing else from this guide:

  • Choose your sequence deliberately (land loan vs. C2P) based on your design readiness and the competitiveness of the lot.
  • Demand clarity on how your lender calculates the maximum loan (LTV vs. LTC) and how they treat land equity.
  • Budget for carry costs and soft costs early. Over-communicate with your lender and builder.
  • Lock what you can, hedge what you can’t, and keep a healthy contingency.

Do those things, and the financing becomes a tool—not a trap—on the way to the home you actually want.

Matt Harlan

I bring first-hand experience as both a builder and a broker, having navigated the challenges of designing, financing, and constructing houses from the ground up. I have worked directly with banks, inspectors, and local officials, giving me a clear understanding of how the process really works behind the paperwork. I am here to share practical advice, lessons learned, and insider tips to help others avoid costly mistakes and move smoothly from blueprint to finished home.

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